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Sri Lanka is a backpackers’ haven. It welcomes even the most shaggy of us all with open arms and a shit load of dhal. This small but spicy, tear-drop country is a lil’ rough around the edges, but in the absolute best way possible.

I’m so excited for you to experience its beautiful chaos for yourself. 

From rolling waves and snapping turtles in along the south coast, to jungle hiking and infamous train rides in the centre – Sri Lanka is a tropical paradise in South Asia that isn’t given the attention it rightly deserves.

Although it seems like a small slice of land – especially when compared to its huge-ass neighbour, India – it does take some planning to travel around. 

Luckily, you have me! I have spent 6 weeks exploring Sri Lanka, across two separate trips. I got to experience multiple seasons and a shit load of cool places. I’ve got a lot of helpful info up my sleeve to make your first time in Sri Lanka as smooth sailing as possible.

I’m going to keep this guide short and sweet – just covering the basics – but don’t worry we have a BIG ol’, super comprehensive backpacking guide if you want some further reading 🙂

harvey hanging out in a tuktuk with surf boards on the roof in sri lanka
Let me give you my hot tips for your first time in Sri Lanka!
Photo: @danielle_wyatt

The Broke Backpacker is supported by you. Clicking through our links may earn us a small affiliate commission, and that's what allows us to keep producing free content 🙂 Learn more.

Entry Requirements for Sri Lanka

In the period immediately prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, visitors from most Western countries did not need a Visa to travel to Sri Lanka. However, this visa waiver program has now been scrapped, and all visitors now need one.

Don’t worry – it’s pretty straightforward. Just make sure you go through the Sri Lankan govt website (I’ve linked it below), and not a scammy one.

However, they are relatively easy to obtain for Western passport holders and can usually be obtained online. Obtaining a Sri Lanka visa for Australian Citizens, citizens of the US, Canada, the EU, and the UK is mercifully straightforward.

When To Visit Sri Lanka

The small island of Sri Lanka sits snugly nestled to the South of India (the two were once connected), meaning it’s about 400 miles north of the equator. This makes it suitable as a year-round travel destination, although it truly comes into its own and can be experienced at its best during the winter between November – February.

That said, note that Sri Lanka is affected by 2 distinct monsoon cycles, which, between them, ensure that the island is wet pretty much all year round. As such, I’d advise you to bring some waterproof gear with you when you visit, especially if you intend to visit the rolling hills in the Sri Lanka National Parks or the ancient city of Sigiriya (AKA Lion Rock).

dani enjoying a free breakfast in sri lanka, looking over ella rock
Blue skies in Ella.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt

Don’t worry, though, monsoon doesn’t mean “rain all day every day” like it does across the water in India, but rather, intense wet spells followed by hot periods of drying. You can still chill on stunning beaches along the Indian Ocean coastline in relatively pleasant weather most of the year.

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Money Matters in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is very cheap for tourists bringing in foreign currency, and your dollars will still go far despite its cost-of-living crisis.

At the time of writing, $1 USD gets 399 Sri Lankan rupees, which means that hostel dorms start at around $5, beers can be bought for $1.50, and a filling plate of thali will even leave you with some change from a buck.

Of course, there are high-end options available too, and in Sri Lanka, you can easily book yourself a 4-star hotel for the cost of a bed and breakfast back home.

Getting Around Sri Lanka

When it comes to travelling short distances, the best way to move in Sri Lanka is by Tuk Tuk (also known as Auto Rickshaws). They are ubiquitous around Sri Lanka, and sometimes you can barely move for excited shouts of “Tuk Tuk!” from excitable Sri Lankans seeking your custom.

inside a local bus in sri lanka
Said, local bus.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt

In terms of moving across the country, the “local” buses are very cheap but can be a bit uncomfortable, and I don’t really recommend taking them for any journey longer than a few hours. This is coming from a gal who decided to do a 7-hour, severely sweaty, shift from Central Sri Lanka (Ella) to the East Coast (Arugam Bay).

Tourist buses are a sight more comfortable and, while they are often 2 to 3 times the price of local buses, are still affordable from a Western perspective.

However, Sri Lanka also boasts some of the best rail journeys that Asia has to offer, and I highly recommend spending some time riding the rails.

Where To Stay in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is not exactly a huge island nation, but it does still span a good geographical stretch. If you want to try and cover the whole island, you’d need at least a month. Rather than take in too much too fast, though, I’d recommend picking a few different places and spending a few days in each, taking in the stunning scenery.

Here are a few top places to visit in Sri Lanka:

Colombo Sri Lanka

Colombo

Sri Lanka’s capital and main transport hub, and home to Sri Lanka’s many festivals. Our advice is to get out of here as fast as you can.

wooden tables and chairs laid out in front of palm trees on the sand of the beach

Negombo

The city of Negombo makes a great alternative to Colombo for when you arrive – get a tuk tuk here from the airport and spend a night in this laid-back city.

gloomy Kandy city in Sri Lanka

Kandy

The historic city of Kandy is a firm favourite among visitors. The train ride here is mind-blowing.

harvey hanging out in a tuktuk with surf boards on the roof in sri lanka

Arugam Bay

The seaside town of Arugam Bay offers beaches, surfing, and parties. Another firm favourite with backpackers.

marble beach in trincomalee sri lanka

Trincomalee

Along the coast from Arugam Bay, Trincomalee is pricer, swankier, but doesn’t offer any surfing.

harvey sitting on a rock at the top of ella rock looking over mountains, sri lanka

Ella

The little hill town of Ella is lush and beautiful. Be sure to spend at least a few days staying in one of Ella’s great hostels and exploring the surrounding areas.

Health and Safety in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka has made some unfortunate headlines in recent years, and even as recently as 2022 was still undergoing something of a political crisis fuelled by economic woes.

Still, the country is open for business and is safe for visitors.

Other than that, the usual precautions for South Asia apply. Speak to your Doctor 12 weeks before your trip to discuss travel vaccinations, be zealous about where you eat, and only drink bottled water (or else filter and then purify it yourself).

Crime is not common, but petty theft does happen, so be careful with phones and wallets. As for female travellers, Sri Lanka is a lot safer than, say, India, although harassment is not uncommon – I’d recommend dressing modestly and not walking alone at night.

Travel with peace of mind. Travel WITH a security belt.
Active Roots Security Belt

Stash your cash safely with this money belt. It will keep your valuables safely concealed, no matter where you go.

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Hide Yo’ Money!

Final Thoughts on Your First Time in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a charming and underrated little destination, and I have no doubts that you will absolutely love your time there.

It’s the kind of country with a little sprinkle of something for everyone. From endless waves in the east to chillin’ with turtles along the Southern Coast. The food is ridiculously good (and cheap). And overall, the vibes are high, especially within the backpacking community.

While this guide is not intended to be comprehensive, if you do need more info, then check out our bumper Sri Lanka backpacking guide.

a surfer walking over rocks towards the ocean at a beach with palm trees in Sri Lanka
Enjoy your time in Sri Lanka, friends!
Photo: @rizwaandharsey
Looking for more info on travelling to Sri Lanka?

 

 


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the broke backpacker team at the water temple in bali
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