The Mae Hong Son Motorbike Loop (Our ULTIMATE Guide)

I love the freedom of having my own bike, being able to explore at my own pace and experiencing things that you don’t get to see on the traditional tourist route when travelling in Thailand. Ditch the crowds, escape the hustle and bustle of the city and embrace the freedom that comes with motorbike adventure.

The Mae Hong Son loop is typically done over four days. I did the Mae Hong Son loop in 5 days, 4 nights. If you have the luxury of time, then you can extend your trip, spending longer in each village, venturing off the beaten path and soaking up the sights, activities and cultural experiences along this incredible route.

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The best time to do the Mae Hong Son Loop is during the cool season from November to February. I would recommend doing it outside of Peak season, the roads will be quieter and it won’t be unbearably hot compared with high season.

I did the Mae Hong Son loop in May, during the rainy season. Don’t be like me. Although I successfully avoided landslides, I did spend the second half of the trip soaked to my core, being assaulted by rain in some of the worst conditions I have biked in.

So, before you ride off into the sunset, you’ll need to choose your noble steed.

The most popular, coolest and what I’ll be basing this extremely helpful guide on, is by motorbike.

There are a couple of less fun options, which we’ll cover in a minute. If the idea of hours in a cramped, sweaty van brings you some kind of joy, then you can do the Mae Hong Son by car or even a minivan. Whatever gets you going, I suppose.

Now, when it comes down to choosing your stallion for the Mae Hong Son loop, only you know your budget and experience.

If you’re new to riding, I would recommend an automatic scooter with at least 150cc. You’ll face some steep hills, so having the extra umph is needed, particularly if there are two of you, plus luggage. You should be able to pick one of these up for 300-500 BHT per day with a deposit and either a copy of your passport or the real thing.

If you’re an experienced rider, I’d recommend a manual bike. You’ll have more control on the downhills, and some extra muscle to tackle the hills. These cost a bit more, depending on the bike, and can range from 600-1400 BHT per day.

For the Switzerland of choices, you can opt for Asia’s most popular bike, a semi-automatic Honda Wave. They’ve got gears for the hills, easy to ride, and I’ve seen families of five on these things. You can pick one of these bad boys up for 250-350 BHT per day.

Whatever bike you go for, make sure you choose a bike that you’re comfortable riding and suited to your experience. Thailand has the highest death rate from motorbike incidents in the world. So yes, this is an amazing experience, but it’s not worth losing your life for. Ride carefully, folks.

You’ll most likely be staying in Chiang Mai before you start your journey. Chiang Mai has no shortage of motorbike rental shops; however, not all are created equal.

We checked out A LOT. Some had stinky vibes, and others had bikes that looked like they couldn’t make it to the end of the road, so in the end, we decided to go with Cat Motors.

They had all the bikes to choose from, and I was like a kid in a candy shop. I went for the Honda NX500x, which was an absolute beauty of a machine, but I wouldn’t recommend it for beginners.

All of their bikes were in excellent condition, they let me test drive the bike beforehand to check everything was okay and let us store our bags whilst we did the trip.

They had a good selection of new helmets to keep the noggin safe and included a luggage box, plus a phone holder. We put down a 5k THB deposit (this varies depending on the bike you choose) and they took a copy of our passports.

If you’re looking for the best place to rent a bike for the Mae Hong Song loop, then I highly recommend using Cat Motors.

As I previously mentioned, a motorbike isn’t the only way that you can explore this epic route. These are your other options:

Mae Hong Son Loop by Car

Now, if you’d rather be confined in a metal box and miss out on the emersiveness and freedom of a motorbike, then you can do the Mae Hong Son loop by car. You, do you.

Some Bike rental companies will also offer car rental, ideal. Or you can check out booking.com or DiscoverCars, as they often have some decent deals.

Mae Hong Son Loop by Bus

It is possible to do the Mae Hong Son loop by bus. However, it offers the least freedom and is the least epic, in my opinion. The buses will be able to get you from A-B but don’t offer any flexibility to get off the beaten track and explore. They run on a pretty strict schedule, have pre-set stopping points and depending on your driver, can be a motion sickness nightmare.

Okay, so now you’ve got your stallion. It’s time to hit the road. The next logical question is, where am I going to stay?

Well, parts of the route are remote, but you’re still staying in Thailand. There are heaps of accommodation options along the route. Depending on your budget and what you’re after, there will be something for you.

For me, you can’t beat rocking up to a family-run homestay after a long day on the bike and having that first sip of cold beer, extra points if they have a mean view. Sure, they’re not super fancy, but as long as they’ve got a decent bed and warm shower, that certainly feels like luxury.

But don’t worry, as I run you through my recommended five-day itinerary below, I’ll also run you through my favourite places to stay in each.

Now it’s time to plan where you’re heading.

A good plan is an adaptable plan. Things happen, and plans might change. Who knows, you might meet the love of your life and end up teaching yoga in a hippie commune in Pai. I’m not here to judge, I’m here to guide you.

I will be basing this on a 4-night, 5-day trip. If you’ve got the luxury of time, you can extend this route, spend more time exploring the towns, villages and activities nearby. It can also be done in less time, but you’ll have bigger driving days and have a VERY sore butt by the end of it.

• Day 1: Chiang Mai – Pai
• Day 2: Pai – Mae Hong Son
• Day 3: Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang
• Day 4: Mae Sariang – Don Inthanion
• Day 5: Don Inthanion – Chiang Mai

I’ve also given a few extra places that you can stay instead, or extend your trip and stay an additional night.

Day 1 – Chiang Mai – Pai

Heading out of Chiang Mai isn’t the most exciting; it’s about 45 minutes of highway driving, and to be honest, the least epic stretch of the loop.

Once you’re out of the city and heading for the first night’s stay in Pai, you really start to see the beauty of the Mae Hong Son loop. Nature starts to surround you, the roads start twisting and curving, and the adventure begins.

This stretch is give or take, 147km and will take you about 3-4 hours depending on how many scenic wee stops and gram-worthy pics you take. It’s a very popular route with fellow backpackers, especially in high season, so ride carefully as there will be a lot of minivans in peak season.

Pro tip: Leave early. You’ll beat the midday sun and miss the traffic

Scenic Stops Along the Route:

• Mok Fa Waterfall – about an hour from Chiang Mai. Short Hike to the waterfall. Entry is 100 THB per person and 20 THB per scooter
• Good View Cafe – about 20 mins from Mok Fa waterfall. Good place for a refuel with a scenic view.
• Kong Gnam Viewpoint – scenic viewpoint and well worth a stop
• Rak Chang Viewpoint – a good place to stretch the legs and soak in the view before heading to Pai

Things to Do in Pai

• Pai Canyon – best visited at sunset
• Pai Hot Springs (Sai Ngam) – natural jungle pools perfect for a soak
• Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge – an 800-metre bridge across rice fields with a temple at the far end
• Mae Yen Waterfalls – a jungle hike with river crossings and a secret waterfall
• Tipsy Tubing – enter full backpacker mode and float down the river in a tude with music and drinks
• Pam Bok Waterfall – a canyon waterfall with a cool plunge pool, less crowded than others
• White Buddha (Wat Phra That Mae Yen) – climb 353 steps for views and a peaceful temple vibe
• Jungle Ziplining – soar through the treetops on 22 platforms, including a 550m line with jungle views

Where to Stay in Pai

Once you make it to Pai, I’d recommend staying in the Southland Pai Airbnb. It had an amazing view from the rooftop overlooking the rice fields, and the sunset was incredible. The room itself was cosy and had everything you needed. You’re also in a great location, just around the corner from the Pai Canyon and a short drive into town.

Day 2 – Pai – Mae Hong Son (or Pha Bong)

This was one of my favourite parts of the loop. The roads curve beautifully through the lush hills, you start to climb, and the views will knock your wee socks off.

This glorious stretch of 130km of twisting tarmac is 3 hours from Pai, not including stops. I’d recommend hitting the road early to make the most of the incredible viewpoints along the way.

Here you have a couple of options. You can either stay in Pha Bong or you can stay in Ma Hong Son. Mae Hong Son is more built up and has more accommodation options, whereas Pha Bong is more rustic and in nature. So it depends on what you’re into.

Pha Bong is a 2.5-hour drive from Pai, and it is located just before Mae Hong Son.

Another alternative: Pai – Mok Cham Pae (this would require an extra night)

Now, if you want to get off the beaten track, we actually end up staying in a Hmong village called Mok Cham Pae. This took us off the route and but meant we got to experience the majestic mountain town and some unforgettable, authentic experiences.

We stayed in a very rustic farmstay with an incredible view called Nithisoonthon Farmstay. It had a beautiful balcony overlooking the oubouts, and there was a little fire pit, and they supplied some firewood for an evening fire.

The village is pretty remote and not set up for tourists, so expect a very local experience. However, they did have one restaurant open (which doubled as the local supermarket) – it served up some mean Thai food. We ordered it to take away and eat it on our balcony with a cold beer and a fire.

It does take you a bit off route, so I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have an extra day, and it meant that we had a BIG day of driving the following day, but we thought it was worth it for the authentic experience. It is probably the most off-the-beaten-path places in Thailand that we’ve stayed. If you did this alternative, you’d just drive to Mae Hong Son the next day.

Story time of my highlight moment from the trip:

It was a Sunday morning, and we were having a coffee before hitting the road, when we heard this beautiful singing. We looked over the road and saw a small local church in full Sunday service. We decided to go over and check it out.

We were welcomed in and invited to sit down and join the service (in our full leathers, might I add). Surrounded by Humung villagers, we were the only foreigners in sight. One of the people from the church spoke English, so we were invited on stage and asked about who we were, about our travels and some things about our home.

It was an incredible experience, a truly magical travel moment that reminds you of the pureity and beauty that you can only get when venturing into the far-flung corners of the world.

Scenic Stops Along the Route

• Nam Lod Cave – a cave system with bamboo rafting, located near Soppong
• Kiem Lom Viewpoint – a roadside stop with views, coffee stalls, and basic facilities, about 30 minutes from Pai
• Ban Ban Jabo Viewpoint – Scenic viewpoint looking out onto the border of Myanmar, they have a little café. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy a refreshing drink with a view.
• Noodle Soup House Ban jabo – The best noodles with an insane view over the mountains
• Ban Luk Khao Lam View Point– another scenic stop with food stalls and restrooms
• Hmong Meo Microwave Village – a small Hmong village at high elevation with views and a glimpse into local life (note: the roads to get up are narrow, windy and a bit sketchy – use your horn).

Things to Do in Pha Bong and Mae Hong Son

• Pha Bong Hot Spring – natural sulfur springs with private soaking tubs and massage services, just south of Mae Hong Son
• Fish Cave (Tham Pla) – a peaceful park with sacred fish and a short nature walk
• Long Neck Karen Village (Huay Pu Keng or Huai Sua Tao) – visit one of the Karen communities to learn about their culture and crafts
• Su Tong Pae Bamboo Bridge – Thailand’s longest bamboo bridge, stretching across rice fields to a hilltop temple
• Hike to the Summit of Doi Pui Luang – a full-day trek from Ban Huay Hee through orchid forests to panoramic mountain views
• Stop in at this craft beer bar in Mae Hong Son – it is run by a lovely local guy. He is a Harley-Davidson driver, and his wife is a doctor. The beer is great, and so are they! (shout out to Kirsty from the Broke but Backpacking community for this rec!)

Where to Stay in Mae Hong Son and Pha Bong

Good news, there are heaps of places to stay in Mae Hong Son, so whether you’re looking for a budget-friendly place to crash or looking to splash some cash, there are plenty of options. Mae Hong Son is also the name of the province, not just the town, so double check before you book, as you don’t want to be staying out in tim-buck-two (or maybe you do?)

If you want to enjoy a more nature-infused stay. I’d recommend Pha Bong; there are fewer accommodation options available, but many are amongst the fields with views of the mountains. Whereas the bigger towns, like Mae Hong Son, are more hotel-style. Depends on what you’re after.

Day 3 – Mae Hong Son – Mae Sariang (or Mae La Noi)

Nice work. You’ve made it to day three. By this point, your butt is sore, but the views are ramping up.

Again, you have two options here. You can head to Mae Sariang, which is 85km and a 1.5-hour drive without any stops from Mae Hong Son. Or you can head to Mae La Noi, which is a shorter 1-hour drive and only 55km. However, both are slightly longer if you are coming from Pha Bong by about 45 minutes.

There aren’t a heap of stopping points along this stretch, but it’s a great part of the route to enjoy cruising.  One of my highlight stops was a chill cafe called Lan View Coffee, we enjoyed a well-deserved mango juice overlooking the local farmland and cute cows. 

Before you get to Mae Sariang ,you’ll pass through a little town called Mae La Noi. We actually decided to stay here because we’d had a big day on the bike and the weather wasn’t the best.

Scenic Stops Along the Route

• Pha Bong Viewpoint – a roadside lookout offering views of the hills and valleys. There was a man there selling coconut ice cream, and it was the BOMB.
• Ban Huai Hom – detour to a Karen village known for Arabica coffee plantations and traditional sheep wool weaving
• Salawin National Park – detour for nature trails, river views, and quiet forest hikes near the Thai-Myanmar border
• Roadside temples and shrines – Scattered along Highway 108, offering quiet moments and glimpses of local spiritual life

Things to Do in Mae Sariang

• Yuam River Promenade – a scenic riverside walkway, lovely at sunset
• Wat Phra That Chom Thong – hilltop temple with views over Mae Sariang and the Yuam Valley, home to revered Buddha relics
• Mae Sariang local market – a lively spot for fresh produce, street food, and handmade goods, best visited in the morning

Where to Stay in Mae Sariang and Mae La Noi

We stayed in Mae La Noi. It was a much smaller town, and we stayed at a gorgeous homestay with a swimming pool surrounded by nature. It’s a similar situation to Pha Bong and Mae Hong Son – the Mae Sariang is the bigger of the two with plenty of accomodation options, and Mae La Noi is its baby sister.

Day 4: Mae Sariang – Doi Inthanon National Park

Today we’ll be heading to Doi Inthanon National Park, AKA, the roof of Thailand. The final night of this incredible road trip through the north of Thailand.

There are two main routes from Mae Sariang to Doi Inthanon National Park, each offering a distinct experience:

1. The first route heads northeast via Mae Chaem (using Route 108 and 1192), winding through villages and valleys before entering the park from the west near the summit. This is my suggested route if you want to take in some MIGHTY cool scenes.
2. The second route follows Route 108 east through Hot and Chom Thong, then climbs into the park via the main southern entrance on Route 1009. This route is best for those after a faster, more direct ride with smoother roads and easier access to facilities (AKA petrol, food, 7/11s). However, it’s MUCH less scenic.

Whichever route you choose, the roads around the national park are EPIC. You start climbing, the roads are twisting, and you are just surrounded by lush nature. We were there in the rainy season, so the waterfalls were so powerful; it was incredible to see. There are a few trails to explore around the national park, so if you have free time, it’s defo worth checking out.

During the rainy season, this was the sketchiest part of the route. We didn’t actually make it to the top because of the rain, there were landslides, the visibility was terrible, and the conditions were too bad. It can also get a little chilly as you start to climb pretty high, so those warmer layers will come in handy here.

Scenic Stops via Mae Chaem (WAY more scenic and local)

• Mae Chaem town – a quiet valley known for traditional weaving and authentic northern Thai culture
• Mae Chaem – Coffee & Thai Food – roadside lookout with panoramic views of the surrounding hills

Scenic Stops via Chom Thong 

• Wachirathan Waterfall – an easy-access, epic waterfall
• Ob Luang National Park – a cool gorge with forest trails and prehistoric rock art
• Mae Klang Waterfall – a powerful waterfall

Things to Do in Doi Inthanon National Park

• Hike the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail – a scenic loop trail with epic mountain views
• Visit the Royal Twin Pagodas – pagodas with gardens and panoramic viewpoints
• Explore Wachirathan Waterfall – one of the park’s most popular and dramatic waterfalls
• Walk the Ang Ka Nature Trail – a short boardwalk loop through mossy forest near the summit

Where to Stay in Doi Inthanon

If you have an extra night, I would 100% recommend staying in the National Park and heading up to the temple at the top for sunset or sunrise. We did and we stayed in this EPIC eco-hobbit hut accomodation called Dealorpu Mud House. I’d highly recommend 🙂 If not, you can pass through and then back to chaing mai.

Day 5: Doi Inthanon – Chiang Mai

If you have the luxury of time on your side, you could deffo stay another night up in the Doi Inthanon National Park, do another hike, check out another waterfall – or just bask in the glory of knowing you’re at the highest point in Thailand. That’s pretty cool bragging rights.

If you do not have time on your side (like us), you’ll be hitting the road back to Chiang Mai. As per the first day, this is one of the least scenic parts of the trip. But there are plenty of coffee shops and 7/11s to stop at to bring some entertainment.

Climbing out of the national park, you’ll find the roads are well-paved, windy and surrounded by lush greenery. But once you join the main roads, you’ll be stopping and starting along trafficked streets and zooming along highways with vans, trucks, and of course, a ton of other motorbikes. Like I said, not the most scenic day of the trip.

Scenic Stops Along the Route:

• Mae Klang Waterfall – a dramatic waterfall near the park entrance.
• Wachirathan Waterfall — one of the most powerful and picturesque falls in the area.
• Sirithan Waterfall – a quieter, green waterfall with a short boardwalk trail and peaceful vibe

Things to Do In Chiang Mai

• Take a Thai cooking class to sharpen your culinary skills
• Watch a live Muay Thai fight for an adrenaline rush
• Visit the gravity-defying Sticky Waterfalls
• Hike through the forest to Wat Pha Lat, then climb Doi Suthep for panoramic views

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Stay in Chiang Mai’s Old City for temples, markets, and easy walks. Nimman’s the spot for cafés, co-working, and a younger vibe. Or, if you want more of a peaceful vibe, you can try riverside stays or head to the hills near Mae Rim. Each area has its own feel, so pick what fits your mood. There are loads of cool places to visit in Chiang Mai.

Pack light. This is not the trip you want to bring the kitchen sink, leave your monster pack behind, get a small day pack and play Tetris to make everything fit.

Our bike rental company were super helpful in letting us store our bags whilst we did the trip.

If you’re like me and end up doing this in the rainy season (something I wouldn’t recommend), then you’re going to need a few extra layers and some decent waterproofs.

There is only so much I can do for you here. I will be your guiding light. I will list the essentials, but the hairdryer, wheelie suitcase and guitar? That’s up to you, but I’d love to see how you manage to squeeze that onto your two-wheeled vehicle.

• Packing Cubes – Easier to compress your stuff, especially if you have a storage box.
• Day pack
• Light Layers/exercise clothing
• A fleece or lightweight jumper – It can get chilly in the mountains.
• A good lightweight rain jacket or poncho
• Covered trainers
• Socks
• Sunglasses – That sun is BRIGHT
• Portable Phone Charger – Handy for keeping your phone charged.
• Toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant – Don’t overpack here.
• Sunscreen
• Bug Spray
• International Driver’s License
• Cash – Many smaller towns and fuel stations don’t accept cards, and there might not be an ATM for a while. So, unless you want to start busking to make an extra buck, bring plenty of cash.

The Mae Hong Son Loop is considered a safe place to travel; however, Thailand is the world leader in deaths on the road from motorbike accidents, and this route can be dangerous. My top tip: don’t drive like a dickhead.

The road conditions were generally well-maintained, and if you travel outside of peak season, there will be less traffic on the roads.

Safety Tips for the Mae Hong Son Loop

• WEAR A HELMET – If you think you’re ‘too cool’ to wear a helmet. You, my friend, are a bellend… No, but seriously, make sure you’re renting from a place that has good helmets and WEAR IT.
• Rent Protective gear – I rented gloves, knee pads and a jacket for 300 Baht each for 5 days from this shop.
• Check the weather conditions – I did this loop in the rainy season, and it was sketchy. If you can avoid doing this loop in the rain, I would, trust me.
• Take plenty of breaks – break up your route, plan for stops and make sure you stay hydrated. With the heat, you end up sweating a lot and can lose a lot of fluids. You don’t want to end up dehydrated and lose concentration.
• Be aware of your surroundings. – Thai Drivers are known for their wild overtakes, sometimes on blind corners. Be careful on the corners and don’t drive too close to the middle, as you might find a minivan hurtling towards you.
• Get Insurance – It’s better to be covered than not.

Before you hit the road, here are a couple more travel tips from me:

1. Get an International Driver’s License before you leave your home country:

Police stops! I got stopped 2 minutes into my test ride. I had no wallet, no passport or license on me. It is against the law to drive in Thailand without your international driver’s licence (which I didn’t have or didn’t know I needed to have – silly Harvey). The fine was 500 baht. I had to go to the police station to pay it, as it meant that I couldn’t be fined again for 3 days as long as I showed my receipt, so don’t throw it away.

We didn’t get stopped again during our trip or see any other police stops. So if you can make it out of Chiang Mai without being stopped, you should be golden. Fingers crossed.

2. Carry cash:

ATMs are few and far apart, but delicious local noodle shops will only accept cash. So stock up before you go or whenever you come across an ATM.

3. Fuel up when you can:

Fill up your tank as often as possible – PTT was like an oasis in the desert. They often have 7/11’s petrol stations you can pay card at, nice bathrooms, making them the perfect refuelling stop. For yourself and the bike.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance for the Mae Hong Son Loop

It goes without saying, you’ll want to grab some good travel insurance before starting your journey on the Mae Hong Son loop!

ALWAYS sort out your backpacker insurance before your trip. There’s plenty to choose from in that department, but a good place to start is Safety Wing.

They offer month-to-month payments, no lock-in contracts, and require absolutely no itineraries: that’s the exact kind of insurance long-term travellers and digital nomads need.

SafetyWing is cheap, easy, and admin-free: just sign up lickety-split so you can get back to it!

Click the button below to learn more about SafetyWing’s setup or read our insider review for the full tasty scoop.

And there we have it, that brings us to the end of this epic guide on riding the Mae Hong Son loop. Honestly, riding this route was a standout highlight of my travels so far. The remote villages, incredible scenery and local experiences are what travel is all about, and the Mae Hong Son doesn’t disappoint.

Take the best parts of this guide (aka the whole thing) and feel free to customise it to suit you and your travel plans. Only you know your budget, experience and what you’re comfortable with. This is based on my experience. If you want to spend more time exploring, add a few nights. If you don’t have the luxury of time, it can be done in less time. Whatever you end up doing, I have no doubt that you’ll have a blast.

Now, it’s time to put this info into action and explore this incredible route. Enjoy and ride safe, amigo.