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If backpacking around South East Asia is level one backpacking, Sri Lanka is like, level two. Meaning: not very difficult to do, but if you’re a baby backpacker like me, it’ll feel like a massive graduation.

Things don’t follow the same cookie-cutter script you get in Thailand or Indonesia. Landing in Colombo can be a bit of a sensory slap in the face, and you’ll soon learn that Sri Lanka is equal parts chaotic and adventure. But, for me, that’s what makes it oh-so magical.

My Sri Lanka trip was an absolute dream—but it was also a hot mess at times. I wish I had a curated set of Sri Lanka travel tips in my back pocket to help steer me through the good bits and prep me for the not-so-glamorous moments.

So here it is: advice I wish I’d had, served straight from someone who had to learn it all the hard way.

It’s my broke backpacker duty to pass this on—from one fellow traveller to the next—so you can soak up all the magic with a few less curveballs…Let’s dive in.

sri lanka ella rock little adams peak hike girl in the mountain
Oh Sri Lanka, the country that you are!
Photo: @taya.travels

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    1. Use Public Transport

    It won’t take you long to touch down in Sri Lanka and have your first experience with their buses. These things are beasts—huge colourful metal boxes being driven like they own the road. And, to be fair, they kind of do. You don’t want to play chicken with these things.

    But don’t worry, they’ll warn you if you get too close. The horn of a Sri Lankan bus is nothing I’ve ever experienced before, and you’ll NEVER get used to them. They’re so loud you’ll think your soul has left your body. If you know, you know.

    inside a local bus in sri lanka
    Welcome to the chaos
    Photo: @danielle_wyatt

    Like many other things on the island, there doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason as to how buses operate here; you just gotta have a bit of faith.

    There’s no 12GoAsia or even dedicated pick-up/drop-off spots a lot of the time; you just rock up to a bus station and hope for the best. Luckily, the locals are SO helpful and I had never been put on the wrong bus. The bus driver even remembers what stop you asked for after hours of driving, which seems nothing short of a miracle.

    As much as buses with AC sound like the way to go, the non-AC ones are surprisingly breezy. All of the windows are open, the bus doors are open in true Sri Lankan style, and it’s a way more local affair, so you’ll get that experience over a bus catered to tourists.

    It’s chaotic, crowded and expect some crate of chickens somewhere and music or a film playing up front. But honestly, if you’re planning on backpacking around Sri Lanka, it’s the way to go!

    2. Dive Into the Local Cuisine

    One fundamental part of the Sri Lankan experience is diving into all of the YUMMY food this country has to offer. Rice and curry are the stars of the show, but you also have hoppers, kottu and a ton of other cheap street eats on offer. The best way to dive into the local cuisine is to book a cooking class, so I highly recommend doing one at the start of your trip so you’re all clued up.

    Brits and Broke Backpackers alike can rejoice here-there are a ton of bakeries no matter where you go. It not only scratches that itch you’ve got for a Gregg’s steak bake, but these ‘short eats’ are SUPER cheap too.

    Sri Lanka is also one of the easiest countries for my veggie and vegan friends. Such a big part of the cuisine is meat-free, with the usual rice and curry affair consisting of 4-5 veggie curries with maybe one or two meat options. Don’t be fooled into thinking veggie = healthy here, though, two months of Lion beer and rice and curry every day, and my body was certainly paying the price!

    harvey eating kotu in sri lanka
    The face of a very happy Harvey with his kottu
    Photo: @danielle_wyatt

    3. Get a Local SIM Card

    Grabbing a SIM from the airport when you first touch down is the easiest way to be connected from the get-go. Plus, these airport SIMs are pretty cheap compared to other countries, so you don’t have to worry about getting shafted.

    Of course, you could go for an eSIM so you don’t even have to consider the stress of SIM card hunting when you’re in travel-brain mode. Saying that, I went through a couple of SIMs during my trip, and they are not all made equal, I’ll tell you that for free. The mobile provider you go with seriously matters.

    I started with Mobitel, and it was dogshit. I wasn’t exactly doing some intense coding with it, but forgive me for wanting Google Maps to load at the very least. Two weeks in, I was at the end of my tether and went for the more reliable, albeit more expensive, Dialog. Where you are in the country does affect the service you’ll get, but as a rule of thumb, I’d pay that bit more and go with Dialog.

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    4. Take a Surf Lesson

    I think I read somewhere that it’s actually forbidden to go to Sri Lanka and not surf. Okay, maybe that’s a lie, but in my eyes it’s basically sacrilege. Surfing is SO intrinsic to life on the South and East coast here that you’d be wrong not to get involved in it, even if you are a newbie.

    There’s something for every level of surfer in Sri Lanka, from mellow beach breaks in Hiriketiya to some pretty gnarly reef breaks up near Midigama and Arugam Bay.

    Learning to surf here is probably one of the most memorable experiences you’ll have, with local guides that have been shredding these waves since they were able to walk. Respect to them—lifelong wave chasers with salt in their veins.

    dani and friend surfing in sri lanka
    Surfs up
    Photo: @danielle_wyatt

    5. Stay in Homestays

    Sri Lankan hospitality completely caught me off guard—in the best way possible—and it’s hands down the main reason I’d come back. The locals are some of the kindest people I’ve ever met. They genuinely can’t do enough for you, and it shows in every interaction.

    Homestays are where this really shines—there’s a kind of charm and warmth you’ll never get from hotels or cookie-cutter chains. Even in the hostels in Sri Lanka, you feel like you get a much deeper level of interaction with your hosts.

    And if the family offers to cook for you, say yes, no hesitation. Every one of my best meals came from the kind families I stayed with, not from the tourist-packed restaurants serving watered-down versions of the real stuff. Just brace yourself—it might still come with a bit of a kick, even if it’s “white person” spicy.

    You might even get a rainbow thrown in for free
    Photo: @themanwiththetinyguitar

    6. Sort Your IDP Before Renting a Bike

    The police will jump at any chance to fine you here. Seriously, I never used my IDP once whilst backpacking SEA for 9 months until I got to Sri Lanka and then got pulled over three times in one day. Opportunistic bastards, that’s for sure.

    If you don’t have the credentials to drive a bike in your home country, worry not. So long as you present your IDP and put on the confidence, that’ll be good enough to shoo away unwanted attention from the police. Most of them don’t know what they’re looking for in these documents; they’re just hoping you don’t have one so they can fine you.

    Taya posing on a motorbike with a smiling dog on the South Coast of Sri Lanka
    Busted by the feds
    Photo: @taya.travels

    7. Check the Seasons Before You Travel

    You may think that the seasons are pretty straightforward, considering how small a country Sri Lanka is. And for that, you’d be dead wrong. Sri Lanka’s weather is actually shaped by two different monsoon seasons, so, like with other bigger countries, the best time of year to visit depends on where you are going.

    The Southwest Monsoon:

    • Runs from May to September
    • Covers places like Colombo, Galle, the Hill Country and the whole South East coast
    • Best time to visit: October to April.

    The Northeast Monsoon:

    • Runs from October to January
    • Covers the all-important tourist hotspots of Jaffna, Arugam Bay and Trincomalee.
    • Best time to visit: February to September

    The tourism seasons in Sri Lanka are of two halves, meaning the time of year kind of depends on where the tourists will be. And whilst you can expect to see some number of tourists along the South coast year-round, tourism on the east coast isn’t nearly as developed, meaning it is very seasonal. This is nice, in my opinion, as wherever you go, it will never feel like a ghost town.

    You’d be pretty hard done by to find guesthouses and restaurants open in the off-season in Arugam Bay and, to be honest, you wouldn’t want to. Once the season starts on the East Coast and it starts filling up, with it comes a vibe that you come to A-Bay for in the first place.

    You can visit the Hill Country at any time of the year, in my humble opinion, as having a couple of rainy days in those regions isn’t as detrimental as your precious allocated beach days. Having a fair bit of rain makes for perfect conditions to go waterfall hunting and walking through tea plantations.

    jack hanging upside down
    But with rain comes ample opportunity to monkey around at waterfalls

    8. Cash Is King

    I can count on one hand the number of times I was able to pay with a card in Sri Lanka, and it for sure would’ve been some Western cafe on the south coast selling oat lattes and whacking a 3% surcharge on top for the pleasure. Like many other countries in South Asia, cash is king here.

    ATMs are plentiful, so obtaining cash is no stress; just make sure you keep small change on you. Commonly, vendors and drivers claim to have no change for your bigger notes, whether that’s true or they’re looking to keep the change is anyone’s guess.

    9. Look Out for Events During Your Trip

    Who knew my two months in Sri Lanka would be packed with festivals, full-moon parties, and last-minute gigs in random jungle clearings? From hippy drum circles in Sigiriya to full-blown techno raves on Koggala Lake, Sri Lankans don’t need much of an excuse to throw on some beats and crack open a Lion. I just wish I’d known about half of these before I rocked up—nothing like hopping on a sweaty bus out of town only to find out a massive event’s kicking off the day after you leave. FOMO indeed.

    Cultural festivals like Sinhala & Tamil New Year (April) and Esala Perahera in Kandy (July/August) happen on fixed dates each year and are hands down some of the most vibrant, chaotic experiences you’ll have in the country. If it’s music you’re chasing, you’ll have to dig a bit—Google’s hit-and-miss, but social media is where most of it lives.

    Don’t forget good ‘ol word of mouth, though! Once you’re there, talk to locals—especially anyone under 35 who has tattoos, DJs, surfs, or owns a cafe. The local music and art scene is tight-knit and under the radar, so things are often spread through WhatsApp groups and private IG stories. If you’re staying in a decent hostel or co-living space, someone’s bound to know what’s happening that weekend.

    Vesak Poya
    Getting LIT
    Photo: Christiane Birr (Flickr)

    10. Be Realistic with Your Times

    Spending two weeks in Sri Lanka sounds completely realistic until you realise that Sri Lanka is all about slowing TF down and complying with Island Time. Seriously, this is a place you really don’t want to rush.

    If time isn’t on your side and you only have two weeks to see the country, I would really consider prioritising your time to either do the coast OR the Hill Country and Cultural Triangle region. It only means you have more of an excuse to come back, after all.

    The country may be small, but travel days are long, and activities shouldn’t really be accounted for on these days in your Sri Lanka itinerary.

    Tomas sleeping on his lugagge on the floor
    The sight of a journey taking a REALLY fucking long time…
    Photo: @monteiro.online

    11. Pack to Be Seriously Sweaty

    The humidity is no joke in Sri Lanka—you won’t need jeans where you’re going. Pack light, because you’ll probably live in the same rotation of beachwear anyway. Between salty swims and lazy afternoons, your favourite bikini and a pair of shorts will do most of the heavy lifting.

    Laundry is as cheap as you like here, so if you are part of the carry-on-only gang, you’ll get by just fine here. Sri Lanka’s a backpacker’s dream, but while you can bring a suitcase, the cracked pavements and bumpy backroads might have other plans. Fine if you don’t mind sacrificing a wheel, but consider yourself warned.

    One tip I have is to definitely pick up a sarong from one of the plethora of beach-side shops you’ll walk past. They double as a towel, beach mat, and a quick cover-up when you need to duck into shops or temples. And for the love of god, don’t be that tourist strutting around the market in nothing but a bikini.

    guy with a rain jacket on in south east asia
    Get very familiar with the feeling of melting in these bin bags for ponchos
    Photo: @danielle_wyatt

    12. Book Trains In Advance

    Booking trains in Sri Lanka is kinda weird. Sure, you can rock up to the station on the day and wangle a ticket for any train, any day of the week—just don’t expect a seat on that train. And when you’re talking Sri Lankan trains, battery chicken living for 8 hours in 35 degrees, you kinda want a seat. If you want the real luxury of a seat for that journey, you have to book in advance.

    Unfortunately, you have to plan this far enough in advance—30 days to be exact. You can book online on the Sri Lankan railways site; tickets either go on sale at midnight or 10 am Sri Lankan time. It’s really anyone’s guess, so be prepared for both.

    adventurous traveller hanging from a train in sri lanka
    Clearly didn’t buy a ticket in time
    Photo: @themanwiththetinyguitar

    If you’re an easy breezy traveller like me with few time constraints in place, this doesn’t really bode well. Agency mafia has cottoned on to tickets on these popular routes and snag tickets as soon as they become available. Unless you go down the black market route and buy tickets from these companies, you can kiss your chances of a calm journey chugging through the Hill Country goodbye…

    That was, until the Ella Odyssey train came about. Set up specifically for tourists, this train is Sri Lanka’s newest contender for the world’s most scenic rail ride. Launched in 2022, the journey takes you through all the main iconic sights, PLUS you’re able to snag seated tickets as last minute as the day before. I hadn’t heard about it until after my Sri Lanka trip, but it would have saved me many a sweaty hour in a packed carriage…

    13. Use Tuk-tuks to Get Around (Just Be Aware of Scams)

    Whether you rent one yourself or grab a driver, tuk-tuks are the go-to way to get around Sri Lanka. They’re the backbone of local transport, so you won’t be dodging them anytime soon.

    Some cities use Uber and PickMe, which are way cheaper than flagging down a tuk-tuk off the street. Down on the south coast, the taxi mafia runs the show—so don’t count on snagging those app deals. If you’re hailing one, always ask for the meter. If there isn’t one, get your haggling hat on and lock in a price before you set off. No one wants to argue with a driver mid-ride in 35-degree heat.

    If you’re ticking off all of the main sites in a city, booking a tuk-tuk tour is a great, hassle-free way of going about it. Not only do you not have to stress about renting transportation yourself or having to flag down a new tuk-tuk after every stop, but you’ll also get the expertise of a local showing you some secret spots or throwing a random, but impressive, fun fact in there from time to time. This one in Anuradhapura gets you through all the heavy hitters in the ancient city with ease!

    14. …Or Rent One Yourself!

    Plenty of travellers go all-in and rent tuk-tuks straight out of Colombo airport, cruising the entire country in these three-wheeled machines. For a country that looks small on a map, Sri Lanka takes its sweet time—Island Time kicks in fast, and your sense of pace will be permanently adjusted.

    Now, if you’re thinking of renting one yourself, let me be crystal clear: experience is 100% required. I was already comfortable driving on chaotic Asian roads on a bike, and I still ended up in the hospital. Turns out three wobbly wheels don’t handle quite like a bike, that I learned the hard way.

    harvey driving a tuktuk in sri lanka with surfboards on top
    Oh we’re cooking on gas now, baby
    Photo: @danielle_wyatt

    15. Don’t Stay in Colombo

    You might think Colombo plays in the same league as other Asian capitals like Bangkok or KL, but you’d be sorely, sorely mistaken.

    Now, I don’t have the same level of rage towards Colombo that some travellers do, but if you’re short on time, I’d still say give it a miss. Sure, there are a few cool museums and a couple of interesting mosques scattered about, but they’re nothing to write home about. When it comes to capital cities, it’s pretty grim—polluted, a bit sketchy, and seriously lacking the buzz you get elsewhere in the region.

    If you absolutely have to crash somewhere before or after your flight, go for Negombo. It’s not winning any awards either, but at least it’s closer to the airport than Colombo, with less traffic, less weird vibes, and slightly fewer headaches. Plus, the best hotels in Colombo are here!

    Mt Lavinia is also not a bad spot either, it’s close to the beach and has direct train links to Colombo proper and Galle.

    Visiting Colombo
    “Go to Colombo,” they said. “It’ll be fun,” they said.
    Photo: @themanwiththetinyguitar

    16. Don’t Get Stuck on the Wrong Side of the Kandy to Ella Train

    This may seem like a rogue one, but there is definitely a right and wrong place to sit on the infamous train from Kandy to Ella. You’ll see shots of rolling tea plantations and the Hill Country plastered everywhere online…and none of the endless brick walls and overgrown foliage you’ll be stuck staring at if you pick the wrong side of the carriage.

    From Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, the right-hand side dishes up some of the best scenery in the country. Nuwara Eliya to Ella, AKA my favourite leg of the journey, will boast all the dreamiest Hill Country scenes on the left side of the train. You can do what I did and split up those two journeys to spend a couple of days in Nuwara Eliya, but if you’re firming the whole journey in one day, I’d definitely prioritise those views from Nuwara Eliya to Ella.

    Doing it in reverse? Just uno reverse the advice and you’re golden.

    sri lanka nuwara eliya tea plantation fields
    You’re in for a treat if you wangle a good seat
    Photo: @taya.travels

    17. Know Where to Look for a Drink

    I’ve seen in other travel guides that there are few to no places to go out in Sri Lanka, and whilst that might’ve been the case in previous years, it certainly isn’t true now.

    One of my favourite things about Sri Lanka’s nightlife culture is the fact that it’s not overtly outlandish like the buckets and full moon parties of Thailand. I’d seen my fair share of 18 year old lads lads lads on holiday in SEA, and Sri Lanka offered a welcome change from that.

    You have to look a little harder for the party in Sri Lanka, but once you know where to look, you’ll realise how vibrant the nightlife culture is here. From parties every night, festivals and beach affairs, you might leave the country like me, never wanting to be face to face with a Lion beer ever again…

    sri lanka lion beer alcohol party
    Oh the mighty Lion and its wisdom…
    Photo: @taya.travels

    18. If You’re Doing Wildlife Tourism, Make Sure It’s Ethical

    I had heard to look for ethical wildlife tourism before my trip to South East Asia, but I’d never really come face to face with overtly unethical animal practices until I got to Sri Lanka. My first elephant encounter in the country seemed magical, until I jumped off my bike and realised it was not, in fact, a wild elephant, but instead chained in the owner’s backyard.

    I was upset, to say the least.

    So please, do your research before getting involved in any wildlife activities. And don’t just take the word “ethical” at face value. What’s seen as acceptable locally might be criticised heavily elsewhere. Think critically about what the experience involves. Are you allowed to touch the animals? Follow them? Watch them in a confined space? If so, chances are it’s not ethical.

    Safaris are massive in Sri Lanka, but the popular ones can get seriously overcrowded. If you’re trying to avoid contributing to that kind of overtourism, look into smaller parks with fewer visitors. Wilpattu National Park is one of the largest and oldest protected areas in Sri Lanka, yet it sees a fraction of the visitors of Yala and Udawalawe National Park. You’ll still get the experience, just without the convoy of jeeps.

    Elphants on a safari in Sri Lanka
    Seeing elephants is a magical experience…but only if they’re in the wild

    19. Know the Visa Requirements Before You Arrive

    You can sort your visa online, which saves the hassle of faffing about in a queue after a long-haul flight. It usually comes through quickly, but give it a couple of days before takeoff just to cover your backside. Do it through the official ETA site, not some dodgy third-party that’ll charge double and throw in a headache for free.

    Most passport holders get a 30-day tourist visa for $50, with the option to extend it by another 60 days if you’re not quite done soaking up the sea, surf and curry. You can also try your luck with a visa on arrival, but honestly, the less I have to do in travel brain mode, the better.

    And yes, always give it a quick Google before you go—visa rules change more often than tuk-tuk prices, and you don’t want to get caught out at immigration looking like a confused backpacker who didn’t do their homework.

    20. ALWAYS Travel with Travel Insurance

    Things can go wrong wherever you travel to in the world, let alone if you’re getting up to things you wouldn’t tell your mum about (sorry mum). Sri Lanka is a very safe country, but accidents happen.

    Hear it from someone who got their phone robbed at a festival, crashed a tuk-tuk and became a laptop down all in 6 weeks of being in Sri Lanka—travel insurance certainly did save my ass!

    ALWAYS sort out your backpacker insurance before your trip. There’s plenty to choose from in that department, but a good place to start is Safety Wing.

    They offer month-to-month payments, no lock-in contracts, and require absolutely no itineraries: that’s the exact kind of insurance long-term travellers and digital nomads need.

    SafetyWing is cheap, easy, and admin-free: just sign up lickety-split so you can get back to it!

    Click the button below to learn more about SafetyWing’s setup or read our insider review for the full tasty scoop.

    Final Thoughts about Sri Lanka Travel Tips

    Sri Lanka may be small, but it sure is mighty. It’s a country of contrasts — one minute you’re riding waves on the coast, the next you’re hiking through misty tea plantations in the Hill Country. You really do get the best of both worlds.

    Sri Lanka is up there with one of my favourite countries, but when I go back, I’d do things a hell of a lot differently. That said, some habits die hard — I’d still eat my bodyweight in rice and curry every night, just with a bit more surfing to balance it out.

    With these tips in your arsenal, hopefully you’ll dodge a few of the rookie errors I made and get the trip you actually imagined — all magic, no mess.

    So, from one traveller to another, I pass on these words of wisdom in hopes that they’ll live forevermore through the backpacker grapevine. Enjoy. 🙂

    sri lanka ella nine arches bridge hill country jungle girl
    A magical, magical place
    Photo: @taya.travels
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