The Broke Backpacker is supported by you. Clicking through our links may earn us a small affiliate commission, and that's what allows us to keep producing free content 🙂 Learn more.
Hiking the Valbona to Theth trail is one of my favourite hiking experiences I’ve had to date.
Not just because of the trail itself (which was absolutely magical) but from start to finish it was full of warm and very welcomed surprises. From the hospitality of the homestays to the outrageous views along the Komani Lake… my expectations were high for this hike and I can tell you now, I was not disappointed.
The Valbona to Theth hiking trail is without a doubt the most popular hike in Albania, and probably also the whole of the Balkans. I first came across it on social media… so I wouldn’t be surprised if you did too. Which as you can imagine, means that this trail is growing in popularity – and fast.
However, after experiencing the hike… I get the hype. It’s freaking EPIC.
It has the wow factor of other alps across the world, however, it is served with a side of rich eastern European culture and unmatched hospitality. It also comes at a fraction of the cost it would set you back to have the same experience in somewhere like Switzerland or New Zealand.
In this article, I’ll take you through all the tips and tricks I have about hiking the Valbona to Theth trail.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
The Broke Backpacker is supported by you. Clicking through our links may earn us a small affiliate commission, and that's what allows us to keep producing free content 🙂 Learn more.
Unlock Our GREATEST Travel Secrets!
Sign up for our newsletter and get the best travel tips delivered right to your inbox.
Valbona to Theth Hiking Trail:
If you’re travelling to Albania, you can’t miss out the Valbona to Theth Trail. The trek is doable for most hikers however, I’ll be honest… it is a challenge! The trail is 15km long and will have you climbing 1000m in elevation. At the peak of the trail, you’ll be sitting pretty at about 1,800m above sea level. The average time taken is anywhere between 5 hours and 8 hours, depending on speed and how many photo/snack stops you take.
The views are incredible the entire time. As you pass over the saddle between Valbona and Theth, you get to see the mountain that you were climbing from a whole other perspective.
There were a couple of cafes along the way where you can grab yourself a cold drink and a byrek (the local – DELISH – pastries). We ended up packing our own lunch, so we didn’t stop for food, but a cold drink was just what the doctor ordered.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
So, on that note… let’s get into the nitty gritty stuff about this incredible hike in Albania!
Best Time to Visit Valbona & Theth
The best time of year to travel to the Balkans and hike the Valbona to Theth track is between June and September. This is the peak summertime in Europe, and it is the time of year that sees minimal rainfall and maximum sunshine. During this time, the trail gets pretty packed, so you’ll want to be sure to secure your accommodation early.
BUT I’ll throw a spanner in here and say that my favourite time to hike the trail is actually during the shoulder seasons (May and October). The weather is a bit more touch and go, but you see far fewer people on the trails, and it’s always nicer when the temperature is lil’ cooler when hiking anyway!
The trail closes over the winter, and most of the homestays will close, especially in Valbona. So this time is pretty much a no-go for hiking.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
How to Get To Valbona
Getting to the trail is half the fun (well, some of it is). We did the route from Valbona to Theth. You can choose to do it the other way around – Theth to Valbona, but I would deffo recommend the way we did it.
All transport into the Albanian Alps essentially starts from Shkoder. Shkoder is a town just a couple of hours from Tirana. The best way to get to Shkoder is by the public bus, which you can catch from the North & South Bus Stations.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Once you get to Shkoder, you’ll soon realise that it is the gateway into the Albanian Alps, with every hotel and tour company advertising transport to Valbona/Theth. You can go with a travel company; however, we just went through our Airbnb host. This made it super easy to get picked up in the morning.
To get to Valbona from Shkoder, it’s a bit of a journey. The entire trip takes a maximum of eight hours and usually requires an early morning pickup (6.30 am) from your accommodation. It’s a three-part trip: you’ll be transported on a minivan, then a ferry, then another minivan. It’s quite the adventure.
- Leg 1: The initial minivan is a rocky ride as these roads are full of potholes and far from maintained. So buckle up while your driver does what he does best.
- Leg 2: This is when things start to get reaaal good. The ferry ride is absolutely magical. Known as the Thailand of Europe, the boat along Lake Komani is worth the trip itself.
- Leg 3: After the boat, another minivan will pick you up and take you on the final leg of the journey and drop you straight to your homestay in Valbona.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Once you get to Valbona, your next mode of transport is your legs as you will hike yourself over to Theth.
After a day exploring Theth, you’ll get a minivan back to Theth. Don’t worry, folks, this time it is just a two-hour drive. Again, your homestay can organise this for you.
What to Pack
You know how I said that Shkoder is the gateway to the Albanian Alps? I wasn’t kidding, this place is super set up for hikers setting off into the Alps. Most homestays and hotels will offer luggage storage while you’re off in those mountains. So, if you’ve got a big ass backpack or suitcase that you don’t want to be lugging around with you – you can pay a couple of euros a day to store it.
Now, you know you can ditch most of your stuff in Shkoder, you’ll want to make sure that you bring a day pack. I’d recommend the Speed Lite 21 Pack, or for a bigger pack, the Osprey Exos 58 is great. You won’t need too much for your escapades into the Alps, and anything you do take, you’ll be lugging over with you on your back – so pack smart, amigos!
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Here is my suggested packing list:
- As I just mentioned, a decent day pack. Something that you will find comfortable hiking with.
- Exercise clothing
- Hiking shoes/ boots
- Good socks
- A light-weight rain jacket. I’d recommend the Mannut Alto Light Weight
- A long-sleeved top (you might want this to be merino/thermal, if you’re visiting in the cooler months)
- A lightweight jumper/jacket
What you DON’T need to pack:
- Soap & shampoo – these toiletries are nearly always provided at the accommodation
- Towels – again, they are provided
Wanna know how to pack like a pro? Well for a start you need the right gear….
These are packing cubes for the globetrotters and compression sacks for the real adventurers – these babies are a traveller’s best kept secret. They organise yo’ packing and minimise volume too so you can pack MORE.
Or, y’know… you can stick to just chucking it all in your backpack…
Get Yours Here Read Our ReviewWhere To Stay
The homestays along the way are a big part of my love for this trail. Sure, they aren’t all top-tier luxury, but they are warm, welcoming, and full of delicious food.
There is something special about the hospitality in Albania, and in the mountains it feels even more exceptional. Most of the guesthouses are run by local families, and they are, without a doubt, some of the best places that we stayed in Albania.
Most of the stays will offer a homemade dinner for about 15 euros, and I can tell you now, it’s a decent spread! Many places include breakfast and can pack you a lunch for your hike for a small fee.
My favourite homestay in Valbona is Lazer Çardaku Guesthouse. They have recently built a cosy lounge area to enjoy a few beers and dinner around a fireplace. The rooms had gas heaters, which in October was a Godsend. The food was delicious! As was their local wine and raki. They even dropped us to the start of the hike – legends.
My favourite homestay in Theth is this Guest House in the Centre of Theth…This stay offered the BEST hot shower after our day of hiking. It also offered incredible views from our window. The included brekky was bangin’ and the owners offered up some of Albania’s finest hospitality.
4-day Itinerary:
I’d recommend taking at least 4 days to get from Shkoder, do the hike, explore Theth, and then head back. You can, of course, spend a little more time in the Albanian Alps.
If you do opt to extend your stay in the Alps, Theth generally has a lot more going on than Valbona. So I’d recommend spending a bit more time here. However, this is also another (rather challenging) hike called Maja e Rosit that you could do from Valbona too.
I did the 4-day route and I loved it. Here is my suggested itinerary for hiking the Valbona to Theth trail.
Day 0: Get to Shkoder
If you’re not in Shkoder already, your mission on day one is to make your way to this gateway town to the Albanian Alps. From Tirana, it’s super easy to get to Shkoder. You need to make your way to the bus station and jump on the bus with the sign on the front of it saying SHKODER. You can ask around the local there as to where you’ll find it.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Once you’ve made it to Shkoder, it’s time to get chatting with your host or local tour companies to book your transport for the next morning. Many travellers coming to Shkoder are here because it’s the best route to Valbona, so you shouldn’t have any trouble booking this.
However, you can opt to be extra organised and contact your host/the tour companies beforehand.
Day 1: Shkoder to Valbona
This is a big ol’ travel day, folks, so buckle up and be ready. The route from Shkoder to Valbona will kick off at about 6.30am. As mentioned earlier, there will be three legs to this trip. A minivan, an incredible ferry ride, and another minivan. After about 8 hours of travel, you’ll land at your homestay in Valbona.
The ferry ride along Komani Lake is seen as part of the required transport to take you to Valbona, but it is so much more than that. It is a whole experience in itself, and is an amazing place to visit in Albania.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
I’d recommend stocking up on snacks and even taking a packed lunch for this day, as food options are very limited.
Once you get to Valbona, most of the homestays will offer a home-cooked meal for dinner for about 15 euros each. The dinner is made from fresh, local ingredients, and is often HUGE. You can also sample the local beer, wine, and raki… if you’re up for it. But remember, you’ve got to get up for a hike tomorrow!
Day 2: Valbona to Theth
This is the day we’ve all been waiting for!!! We’re hiking over the Valbona Pass and over to Theth. You’ll want to make sure you ask for a packed lunch from your homestay; they will do this for about 10 euros for you. You’re gonna need the energy.
Most homestays will drop you to the start of the hike, some for free, others for a small fee. You can always choose to walk there too, depending on how far your homestay is from the start of the track.
The start of the track is BEAUTIFUL. Making your way along a flat path, through the trees with the peaks surrounding you. It is so, so dreamy. But don’t let this lack of climbing fool you… It’s all to come!
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
As I mentioned earlier, there are a few small cafes along the way if you want a stop and a cold drink. The drinks are often kept cold in cages in the river!! Genius, right? You’ll come across a few cute mountain pups, who might even show you the way up. There were also a few horses around.
It’s an epic day, and you will be knackered by the time you make it to your homestay in Theth. Book somewhere close to the end of the track, as you don’t want to trek tooooo far once you finish the route.
Now, it’s time for a hot shower and a cold beer.
Stash your cash safely with this money belt. It will keep your valuables safely concealed, no matter where you go.
It looks exactly like a normal belt except for a SECRET interior pocket perfectly designed to hide a wad of cash, a passport photocopy or anything else you may wish to hide. Never get caught with your pants down again! (Unless you want to…)
Hide Yo’ Money!Day 3: Exploring Theth
Day three is a perfect time to explore Theth. There is a lot more happening in Theth as it’s just a couple of hours’ drive from Shkoder, so you’ll find it’s more built up here.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
In Theth, the main things to do are:
- Hike through the Grunas Canyon and up to the Grunas Waterfall
- Check out the Instagram-famous church – Kisha e Thethih
- Hike to the Blue Eye
- Go Ziplining!
There is a shuttle from the Centre of Theth that will take you to and from the Blue Eye trail. However, if you have the energy, you could also choose to hike one of the ways (or both) and visit the church and waterfall on the way.
The hike from the car park is about 45-min to 1 hour to the Blue Eye. There is also a restaurant by the car park at the Blue Eye, so you can grab a bite to eat here too. If you’re feeling brave, you can take a dip in the Blue Eye…
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Day 4: Head back to Shkoder.
On the fourth and final day, it’s time to head back to Valbona. This is very simple. Ask your host to help you book the shuttle. It then just takes around 2 hours to head back to collect your things in Shkoder. If you leave in the morning, you could also then continue back to Tirana/your next destination in the afternoon.
Things To Know Before You Go
- It’s a bit more expensive in the mountains.
- You can drink the water from the tap (even most outdoor ones!) and the water is some of the freshest I’ve ever sampled, everrrr.
- Some homestay hosts will charge you a whack to pick you up and drop you off at the start of the hike, so look into this before you book your stay.
- Booking a stay close to the start/end of your hike makes your life easier.
- There are bears in Albania – but apparently they haven’t been sighted by any locals in years! So that is promising lol.
- Most places in Shkoder will be able to organise your transport and hold your luggage.
- Snacks for the hike. Prices are hiked in the mountains, so stock up in Shkoder.
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
Don’t forget your travel insurance for Albania
The Valbona to Theth trail is treacherous by any stretch, but it’ll be Sod’s law that something does go wrong and you don’t have travel insurance to save your ass. Don’t be that guy—be prepared.
ALWAYS sort out your backpacker insurance before your trip. There’s plenty to choose from in that department, but a good place to start is Safety Wing.
They offer month-to-month payments, no lock-in contracts, and require absolutely no itineraries: that’s the exact kind of insurance long-term travellers and digital nomads need.
SafetyWing is cheap, easy, and admin-free: just sign up lickety-split so you can get back to it!
Click the button below to learn more about SafetyWing’s setup or read our insider review for the full tasty scoop.
Final Thoughts on the Valbona to Theth Hike
I hope you now feel MEGA prepared for your adventure into the Albanian Alps. You’re in for a treat!
The hike from Valbona to Theth is a popular one… and for good reason. I’m excited for you to find out what all the hype is about. From the ferry ride through Komani Lake and embracing the warm Albanian hospitality to hanging out with the mountain pups and trekking from one town to the next, there is a lot to look forward to.
If you have any other tips, questions, or things I’ve missed, please let me know in the comments below 🙂
Photo: @danielle_wyatt
- Get off the couch and into the great outdoors with our hiking guide.
- Elevate your travel expertise and conquer the world’s most breathtaking hikes.
- Check out these travel bucket list ideas that will be sure to make this year the most memorable yet!
- Embrace your backpacker spirit and travel off the beaten path, because… why not?
- Our in-depth Backpacking packing list has all the info you’ll need for your trip.
Buy Us a Coffee!
A couple of you lovely readers suggested we set up a tip jar for direct support as an alternative to booking through our links, since we’ve decided to keep the site ad-free. So here it is!
You can now buy The Broke Backpacker a coffee. If you like and use our content to plan your trips, it’s a much appreciated way to show appreciation 🙂
