Backpacking Belize: What I Loved & What Surprised Me

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Why go Backpacking in Belize?

Compared to other Central American states, Belize is rather small. That doesn’t mean that there are no adventures waiting for you. Knowing where to stay in Belize is the first step of planning your trip. You don’t want to end up miles away from the hotspots you wanted to explore, simply because you haven’t done your research properly.

It has a completely different vibe to other countries in the region. I felt more like I was in the Caribbean here compared to the “Latin America” vibe of other Central American countries, helped partly by this being the only English-speaking country in the Spanish-speaking region. It’s a small nation that’s easy to get around by bus or boat (or plane if you want some class scenery).

For such a small country, Belize is defined by its diversity. The waters off of its Caribbean Coast make up part of the second-largest barrier reef in the world. The Cayes are home to world-class scuba diving and snorkelling, then there’s the Great Blue Hole. As far as Caribbean islands go, the islands in Belize are generally far cheaper than say a trip to the Bahamas would be.

The interior of the country is green, lush, and dotted with nature reserves which do have a more Central American feel. Wildlife is everywhere. From jaguars and butterflies to monkeys and toucans, you never know what you are going to see on a trek through the jungle. Caracol is home to one of the largest Mayan archaeological complexes in all of Central America.

I found Belize to have a slower pace than other Central American countries. It doesn’t have the chaos of a Guatemalan market, or a Nicaraguan chicken bus, but they really do love to lap up the island life here and take it easy, with a rum in the sun.

Belize is more expensive than other countries in the region (except Costa Rica which is similar in price), so you do need to be a little more selective as a budget backpacker when choosing what to do. Luckily for you, I’ve put together some itineraries to take in the best parts of this country without blowing through your savings.

Having a good Belize itinerary will guarantee a great trip. Not planning ahead might turn into a stressful “I don’t know where to go” vacation. Use your time properly and find out what you want to see before you start your travels. I’ll take you through the best bits here.

2 Weeks: Belize Highlights

• Best for: First-time Belize backpackers who want reefs, beaches, jungles, and ruins – the full package!
• Suggested route: Belize City, Caye Caulker, Hopkins/Dangriga, Placencia, San Ignacio, Caracol
• Total days: 14
• Transit intensity: Moderate
• Budget level: Mid-range overall, but expensive for Central America
• Vibe: Reefs, jungles, Mayan ruins, and sleepy island life
• Best add-on: Guatemala via San Ignacio

This 14-day Belize itinerary offers up Belize backpacking at its finest. Start your trip soaking in some sun and going diving on Caye Caulker. You’ll probably pass through Belize City, but this crime-ridden dump should be treated purely as a transit stop.

Caye Caulker is the unofficial backpacker hub of all of the Cayes. It has a very mellow vibe and attracts a certain type of crowd, i.e backpackers. There are plenty of good hostels in Caye Caulker and overall, just a wonderful, thriving backpacker scene. It’s a great start spot as the vibe here is very laidback, so you can ease in gently.

Some of the other Cayes are built up around resorts and have the associated patrons. Ambergris Caye is super beautiful in places as well, and San Pedro was one of my favourite places to visit.

Once you are back on the mainland, you can head south. There are a number of fine beaches, reserves, and cool hiking spots all along the coast. Two major points of interest are Hopkins and Dangriga, the heartlands of Belize’s Garifuna culture. Dangriga is the cultural epicentre where you can hear punta rock music, whereas Hopkins is a sleepy fishing village with nice beaches.

Dive operators in Placencia can sort you out if you are wanting to do a scuba trip to the Great Blue Hole. Placencia is a little more touristy and offers some good beaches on the mainland.

Next, go explore the numerous reserves and national parks located in the interior. If you are heading to Guatemala after backpacking Belize, San Ignacio is an obvious departure point as it is very close to the border. From San Ignacio, you can explore the surrounding area including the Mayan ruins at Caracol.

10 Days: Islands and Coast

• Best for: Divers, snorkellers, beach travellers, and slower island travellers
• Suggested route: Belize City, Caye Caulker, Ambergris Caye or Placencia/Hopkins if time allows
• Total days: 10
• Transit intensity: Low to moderate
• Budget level: Medium to expensive, depending on tours
• Vibe: Caribbean, reef, seafood, slow travel
• Best splurge: Great Blue Hole dive or Hol Chan snorkelling trip

Again, pass through Belize City as quickly as possible and don’t waste time there. I’d also try to avoid going south of Haulover Creek, where it can be dangerous.

Many people come to the islands of Belize with primarily one thing in mind: to get in the water! The Ho Chan Reserve around Caye Caulker is a fabulous place to snorkel or dive: sharks, manta rays, sea turtles abound. The water is so clear that on calm days one has excellent visibility for spotting wildlife. Caye Caulker is cheaper than Amergris Caye.

It is certainly possible to get a PADI open water diving certificate on the islands; however, it will not be as cheap as the courses offered on the Bay Islands in Honduras. To get a cert on Caye Caulker, you are looking at $460 USD for the four-day course.

If you are a diving fanatic, then diving the Great Blue Hole is a dream that needs to be realised. There might be a lot of hype surrounding it, but hey, hype exists for a reason and the Great Blue Hole is just as spectacular as you have heard about.

If you have time left, go to beach hotspot Placencia, although I’d say it’s less sleepy and a little more touristy these days. You can also check out Hopkins if those sleepy vibes are what you want before leaving.

There are generally three types of destinations in Belize: chilled out islands you can hit the reefs from, coastal towns with beach vibes, and inland spots which make great bases for exploring the jungles and Mayan ruins.

Belize City

At a Glance:

• Best for: Passing through quickly
• Known for: Being a connection point between the mainland and the islands
• How long to stay: As little time as possible
• Don’t miss: The exit

Belize City is more of a transportation point than it is a destination. There’s little of interest in this diverse city, best known for high crime rates. There are certain neighbourhoods in Belize City that I would consider sketchy. You shouldn’t find yourself aimlessly exploring the far reaches of the city. Come here purely for bus, ferry and airport connections.

Don’t head south of Haulover Creek if you can help it. Unfortunately, the central bus station (Novelo’s) is there on West Collet Canal, so you may have to. I walked there and had no problems. But there are reasons why women live longer than men…

If you are in need of something exciting to do, check out the Belize National Museum. The museum is packed with interesting artefacts and antiquities that help you get a better grasp of Belize’s unique history.

For all the backpackers on a budget, there are numerous great hostels in Belize City that offer affordable nightly rates, great amenities and a safe place to rest your head. Book for a night at most, and get straight to the good bits. Just don’t try exploring after dark as it’s not safe.

Caye Caulker

At a Glance:

• Best for: Budget backpackers, divers, snorkellers,
• Known for: Laidback living, Hol Chan tours, snorkelling and diving
• How long to stay: Up to 1 week
• Don’t miss: Hol Chan Reserve, and a good cocktail at the Lazy Lizard as the sun sets

Caye Caulker attracts backpackers from around the world like a magnet. Cheap accommodation (by Caribbean standards), excellent food, and prime dive/snorkel sites make Caye Caulker a true paradise.

You can score a double room for about $40 USD, so if you’re travelling as a couple, you may want to consider a private room. It is a bit higher than it was 5 years ago though.

A day-trip to the Hol Chan Marine reserve is not to be missed. Hiring a boat is probably the best way to go. You get your snorkel gear, transportation, and a decent lunch. The boat essentially takes out into the reserve and in you go. A whole underwater world awaits where you can swim amongst sting rays, nurse sharks and much more within the healthy reefs here.

I had never been around so many sharks in my life. A boat trip to the reserve, including the entrance fee will run you back at least $80-100 USD for the day.

I had one of the best meals of my life in Caye Caulker: BBQ Lobster with coconut rice, salad, and an ice-cold beer for about $10 USD. The lobster was massive as well. Anywhere else in the world, that meal would cost at least $30. Bon appetite amigos…

Ambergris Caye

At a Glance:

• Best for: Divers, couples and higher-budget explorers
• Known for: Reef trips, diving, resorts, and bustling capital San Pedro
• How long to stay: 3-7 days
• Don’t miss: Diving and exploring the reefs

Ambergris is larger, more developed, and more expensive than Caye Caulker. In general, the island feels a lot more lively, and it definitely has better parties compared to its sleepy counterpart. I found much better restaurant choices here too. Don’t expect Western brands and American-style malls though. It’s all small-scale local businesses here.

I’d say the best reason for you to come here is to access more dive sites. There are many diving operators who can help you with just that. Expect to pay top dollar for sure. I have heard that a full day of diving (at least 3 dives) will cost you over $100 USD. Though that includes all of your gear, oxygen, lunch, boat hire, and the guide.

Keep in mind that if you plan on spending a few days diving, operators will often be flexible with their initial price once they learn you are interested in multiple dives. Chat to the owner of the dive shop and try to bargain for a good deal.

San Pedro is a little more harsh on the budget than Caye Caulker, it is a fun place to spend a few days though. Diving is pricier, but there are more food and partying options, plus it’s fun riding a golf buggy around the island.

Diving The Great Blue Hole

The Great Blue Hole is famous throughout the world for the breathtaking marine phenomenon that it is. This site was made famous by Jacques Cousteau, who declared it one of the top five scuba diving sites in the world. In 1971 he brought his ship, the Calypso, to the hole to chart its depths.

I’ve been told it’s best experienced via a helicopter ride. Hey, we’re broke backpackers though, so we’re gonna skip the chopper and experience this beauty from beneath instead.

Because of its uniqueness and ecological makeup, diving in the Great Blue Hole offers up a once in a lifetime experience. You will never see so much amazing oceanic wildlife species coming together in one place. I recommend it only for certified divers though, if you want the best experience.

A dive to the Great Blue Hole can be organised from just about anywhere in Belize. I advise shopping around at different dive centers in Placencia and Caye Caulker to compare the prices, San Pedro too but you may pay more there. If you are going to spend money on anything in Belize, it should definitely be on diving in this truly special place.

Be sure to read reviews thoroughly, and make sure you go with an operator that has good safety standards. Check carefully to see which items are included with each operator.

That said – snorkelling here is not as magical and is very expensive compared to other snorkel sites in Belize. The reason being is that most of the interesting marine life is too deep for snorkellers to see. If you’re a certified diver, great, if not, better to wait until you do before heading to the Blue Hole.

Dangriga

At a Glance:

• Best for: Garifuna culture, access to the Cockscomb Basin, slower coastal travel
• Known for: Drumming, local culture, nearby wildlife reserves
• How long to stay: 1-2 days
• Don’t miss: Garifuna music or the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary

Dangriga is a laid-back beach town where Garifuna culture and abundant outdoor activities make up the draw. If you are headed south down the coast, a stopover in Dangriga is worth it.

Explore the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, which is a jaguar preserve. There is a good system of hiking trails in which to explore the park. Don’t expect to see a jaguar though. Jaguars are notoriously elusive, like all large jungle cats. I’ve spent years in Latam and never seen one. Just know that in all likelihood, within the reserve you are probably not too far away from one.

On any night of the week, there is likely to be a Garifuna drum and dance party somewhere on the beach. Bring along some rum and soak in the rhythms that help make up the identity of this part of Belize.

The neighbouring town of Hopkins also makes for a good base in which to explore the area. Hopkins is more of a sleepy beach town. I’d say it feels a little more authentic than touristy Placencia.

Placencia

At a Glance:

• Best for: Beaches, food, reef access, and a more comfortable coastal stop
• Known for: The beach strip, restaurants, diving, and snorkelling
• How long to stay: 2-3 days
• Don’t miss: Reef trips or seafood meals

Ok, so Placencia has a pretty developed tourism industry. It is a popular destination for many a foreign tourist. That said, there is still some fun stuff to get into. The diving just off of the coast is very impressive, as is the snorkelling if you are not a diver.

Within the town itself, you will find it’s also pretty busy. The real attraction, however, is under the water. Make sure you spend as much time doing water-related activities as you can in Placencia. After a day or two though, you’ll probably be ready to move on.

It’s a good “middle ground” spot between the islands, and inland parts of Belize which are more jungle/ruin-focused. I would say it’s just about the priciest place to base yourself on the mainland though.

Oh, and there are plenty of good places to eat in Placencia, so don’t neglect your belly.

Punta Gorda

At a Glance:

• Best for: Offbeat travellers, Garifuna culture, onward travel
• Known for: Fishing village feel, culture and caves
• How long to stay: 1-2 days
• Don’t miss: Warasa Garifuna Drum School or Toledo Cave

Further south of Placencia lies Punta Gorda. Punta Gorda is a large fishing village town and the main port between Belize and Honduras. As with most places on Belize’s coast, there is some truly remarkable diving and snorkelling to be had here.

If you want to learn more about the music of the Garifuna people, I suggest a visit to the Warasa Garifuna Drum School. You can take a class, beat on some drums, and even buy a hand-made one if you’re keen.

A visit to Toledo Cave for a swim and a hike is another highlight. If you have been spending a lot of time in the sea, the fresh, cool water of the cave will feel amazing.

It’s like the Caye Caulker of the mainland in some ways. It’s slow-paced and a good chill spot. It’s also a short 1-hour ferry ride away from Puerto Barrios in Guatemala, from where you can make your way across to Honduras if you wish.

San Ignacio

At a Glance:

• Best for: Ruins, caves, jungles, and Guatemala border travel
• Known for: Caracol, Xunantunich, the ATM Cave, and cave tubing
• How long to stay: 3-4 days
• Don’t miss: Caracol or the ATM Cave

Most people pass through San Ignacio on their way to Guatemala and the ruins at Tikal. To skip over San Ignacio completely would be a mistake. Some of the best Mayan ruins in Central America can be accessed from San Ignacio.

Hire a jeep (with some mates to cut cost) and spend the morning exploring the magnificent ruins at Caracol. My visit to the ruins was without a doubt a highlight of my trip backpacking Belize. Find some buddies and you can slash costs here.

A full day to Caracol including lunch and a guide will run you back about $131 USD. In my experience, it is totally worth it. It is not like you are spending big money every day on seeing epic ruins. So if you can swing it, go for it!

The other big attraction here is the ATM Cave. No, you can’t withdraw money there. The Actun Tunichal Muknal Cave is reached via 8 hours of trekking through jungles, swimming through darkness, and even exploring chambers with skeletons inside. A true Indiana Jones adventure if there ever was one!

Fancy a 7-mile river float through mystical caves and turquoise rivers? You can organize a tubing adventure from San Ignacio as well. If you can get your hands on a tube, you probably don’t need to book a tour and to be honest you will save a ton of cash. Cave tubing tours start at about $95 USD.

I also enjoyed visiting the iguana sanctuary at San Ignacio Resort Hotel. I was the only one there, so I basically got a private tour, and the guide let me handle iguanas, which seemed fun until one scratched me… After that, it was pretty easy to cross to Flores in Guatemala ahead of my big Tikal adventures.

Getting Off the Beaten Path in Belize

I found that getting off of the beaten path was relatively easy in Belize. You basically get away from the Cayes + Placencia, and it’s a completely different experience.

The jungle reserves, national reserves, and even some Mayan ruin sites are a little less-visited. I wouldn’t say the Garifuna communities around Hopkins/Dangriga are ultra touristy either, so that will give you a slice of culture without tourist hordes.

Having a good backpacking tent greatly expands your adventure potential and increases your independence. Some coastal hostels offer very cheap rates to backpackers who want to pitch their tent on the back lawn and use the facilities. Don’t go wild camping though, it’s illegal and potentially dangerous. You can camp in some forest reserves with a $5 BZD permit from the Belize Forest Department. But be sure to pack up after yourself, and don’t damage anything.

Because the distances are short, you can base yourself in one of the backpacker hubs and make day trips to places in the area. You will find that few people make use of the numerous foot paths and hiking trails in the reserves. You should be exploring to the sound of howler monkeys, not humans, especially if you hike in more than a mile or two.

One of the best ways to travel off-the-beaten-path is to hire your own wheels. If you can convince a few mates to join you, it can actually be pretty affordable… and lead to a good time!

Belize is bursting at the seams with awesome things to do. No matter what your time frame is there are many exciting adventures to be had to suit every backpackers’ individual taste.

I have listed the best things to do here to get your ideas flowing for your next trip backpacking Belize!

1. Go Scuba Diving in the Great Blue Hole

An experience diving in this ecological wonder is bound to be a major highlight. It’s iconic for its dark blue appearance, surrounded by clearer blue waters, and amazing scenery deep in the depths if you go diving here.

Taking a guided scuba trip is a great way to experience the deep sea. Make sure you have your diving certifications, as this isn’t a beginner spot, and be sure to find a well-reviewed tour. I’d recommend shopping around in Belize to find one.

The hole is 40+ miles from anywhere you’ll be based in Belize, and it requires a large logistical team to take you out there and supply all the equipment for diving, which is why it’s a little pricy. It’s true bucket list stuff though!

2. Visit the Mayan Ruins at Caracol

A day spent here exploring these magical ruins is well worth the effort it takes to get here. The Caracol Ruins are an ancient metropolis and you can explore with a guide and learn about the history here in this remote jungle environment. There are caves to explore, plains to roam and forests to frolic in.  

Caracol is the largest metropolis of the Maya lowlands and has a whole system of caves and waterfalls to swim in. Home to the tallest manmade structure of Belize, these ruins are phenomenal and steeped in history. Despite this, it’s relatively unknown and not as touristy as other ruins. Many people skip these in favour of Tikal just across the border in Guatemala.

Caracol is easy to reach from San Ignacio, a nice little spot which I enjoyed spending some time in between my trips to Caye Caulker and Guatemala. You should compare tour prices before booking, or split a car between several of you.

3. Snorkel the Hol Chan Marine Reserve

Not a diver? We have a great alternative for you! The Hol Chan Marine Reserve is an amazing place to go snorkelling. You can swim with sharks, sting rays, turtles, and other seafaring marvels.

It’s much easier to visit than the Great Blue Hole, more beginner-friendly, and cheaper too, so what’s not to love?

This is a great first reef experience in Belize. The only downside is that it will be hard to top afterwards!

4. Eat BBQ Lobster

You have never had lobster this good or this fresh, or at this price. Don’t be surprised if you end up ordering the same thing night after night.

Be aware that lobster season runs from July 1st-February 28th, and it’s illegal to catch or sell it outside of this window. This is due to sustainability reasons. They allow the lobsters to breed during the 4 “closed” months, so they can tingle our tastebuds once more for the remainder of the year!

5. Find a Garifuna Drum Circle

Garifuna culture has deep roots in drum music. It shouldn’t be too hard to stumble upon a full-blown drum dance party on a beach near Hopkins. If you want special, internal access, to a family vibe drumming circle, check out Uwahnie’s Garifuna experience in Hopkins.

Garifuna culture is a blend of their own unique language, with music and dance linked heavily to the spirits of the sea, and revolving heavily around drumming.

This unique, traditional cultural experience is a once in a lifetime opportunity and something you won’t experience anywhere else. The resilience of this culture is an important thing to be a part of. You’ll spend a full day making breakfast and kayaking in the lagoon and waterways learning about herbs and food harvesting with Uwahine. Just be sure to ask before taking pics of the locals.

6. Go River Tubing

There is an epic seven mile river float to be had in Belize. You pass through impressive caves and pristine river systems, all from the comfort of your rubber tube. If you wanna do this, base yourself in San Ignacio, and look for well-reviewed tours.

I’ve done tours with few reviews before, and found myself stranded on a broken boat in the middle of the Philippine Sea during a hailstorm. Whilst in Belize you’re unlikely to end up in the Philippine Sea, there’s still a lot that could go wrong, so checking reviews is always a smart move.

The Nohoch Che’en Cave is the place to go for an epic tubing adventure. I’d advise going with a good guide, just to be on the safe side. Compare prices between operators in San Ignacio, and pick a good one for a fun time!

7. Bird Watching in the Jungle

With countless nature preserves and epic walking paths, if you possess a keen eye you can spot exotic birds, like parrots and toucans. Some hostels offer binoculars for rent.

Caracol is home to Belize’s national bird, the keel-billed motmot, but the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Preserve is my pick for a spot of twitching.

8. Camp on the beach

The beaches south of Hopkins are prime camping territory. In many places you can camp for free. Make sure to pack all of your rubbish out with you and leave your camp site looking beautiful. Just make sure you ask for permission from the landowner first. Wild camping is illegal in Belize.

Don’t camp in isolated areas. Belize is a blend of Central America and the Caribbean – two parts of the world notorious for high crime rates. It’s not always safe here.

9. Visit the Mayan Ruins at Xunantunich

These ruins are not as well-known as Caracol, but are still very impressive. Spend the afternoon walking in the shadow of Mayan history. They’re also easier to get to, just a 30-minute drive from San Ignacio. You can get a shared taxi outside Martha’s Guesthouse, then a ferry across to the ruins.

The views are pretty awesome, and they’re a much cheaper alternative to Caracol.

10. Beach, Book, and Rum

Some days you just want to chill out. Do yourself a favour, pack a hammock, pick some palm trees and your favourite book and take time for yourself to soak in the vibes.

Not every day has to be a mad diving adventure, tubing excursion, or exploring Mayan ruins, as cool as they may be. Belize is known for its laidback slow-paced feel, so sometimes it’s fun to get that true Belizean experience. I spent days drinking Belikin from a hammock in San Pedro and regret nothing!

All of the key backpacker hotspots within Belize have some form of budget accommodation. The average price for a dorm bed is about $20 USD. Most hostels in Belize offer great facilities, a clean and safe environment and the most helpful and friendly staff you could ever imagine.

If dorms are not the right thing for you, alternatively, you can score a nice basic double room for about $30-35, even on Caye Caulker. I recommend booking in advance for island accommodation during the high season (December- February).

That said, in the low season, prices drop and you have some room to haggle a bit for the price per night, especially if you stay more than one night. You can also find vacation rentals in Belize that are super budget-friendly.

If you are keen to camp, many hostels offer camping as an option. There are many places where you can camp on the beach for free. For a combination of camping and four walls, there are numerous eco-resorts in Belize to choose from.

Otherwise, Couchsurfing is the cheapest (free) way to go, and a great way to meet other locals; however, some of the places will not have much of a Couchsurfing scene.

To be honest, this is one of Central America’s pricier countries, I’ve visted all of them and would say only Costa Rica is more expensive.

You can definitely visit affordably. I spent £30-40 per day, which is around $40-55 USD. Factor in diving though and it will cost at least double.

Some things can greatly impact your daily spending. Staying on the islands, diving, taking tours, staying in private rooms, eating in tourist restaurants and taking private shuttles or renting vehicles will cost a lot. But spending more time on the mainland, minimising time below the water, chilling more, staying in dorms, eating in local spots, and using buses will cut costs.

If budget is an issue for you, then I will admit that neighbours Mexico and Guatemala are better options for your bank balance.

A Daily Budget in Belize

These are realistic ranges, not fixed rules. Belize costs swing quickly depending on tours, island stays, and how much diving you do.

Money in Belize

The national currency of Belize is the Belizean dollar. There are lots of international ATMs but they can be tough to find once you are outside of the cities and are in more remote areas. On the main islands – there are an abundance of ATM machines.

It’s advisable to avoid small ATM transactions and get out a bunch of cash at once – just make sure you hide it well. If you need to transfer money internationally, use Wise, it’s the fastest and cheapest way to move money around when travelling.

Travel Tips – Belize on a Budget

To keep your spending to an absolute minimum whilst travelling in Belize, I recommend sticking to these basic rules of budget adventuring….

• Stay in Hostel Dorms: Especially if you are travelling solo, staying in a hostel will always be cheaper than a private room. It kept my costs right down.
• Split rooms/car rentals: Conversely, if you aren’t travelling alone, private rooms can work out cheaper. Likewise if you rent a car, especially to visit Caracol, you can slash costs by sharing.
• Base in Caye Caulker over Ambergris Caye: It’s cheaper and more backpacker-friendly.
• Prioritise 1-2 main activities: Maybe do one diving excursion and the ATM Cave. If you do every pricy trip, then it’ll hammer you financially, in which case you’d be better off finding a blog called “The Luxury Backpacker”.
• Use buses where possible: Any mainland travel should be done by bus. They aren’t too shabby in Belize.
• Camp: With plenty of gorgeous natural places to camp, Belize is an excellent place to take a tent.
• Cook your own food: I took a small gas cooker with me to Belize and cooked a lot of my own meals whilst hitching and camping, I saved a fortune. Just ask for landowner’s permission to camp, as wild camping is banned.
• Travel in shoulder season: May and November are great months as they avoid the pricy peak season (December-April) as well as the horrible hurricane season (September-October).
• Hitchhike: In Belize, it is so so easy to thumb a ride and it is an ace way to keep your transport costs down and instead spend it on smashing experiences. So hitchhike as much as you can when backpacking Belize.

The dry season runs from November to April. The really popular guest houses fill up fast so this is a country where it can definitely be worth making reservations in advance instead of doing my favourite thing and booking the day before.

Rainy season is from June-October. It’s cheaper and quieter, but far less enjoyable. This may be “The Broke Backpacker”, but I’d say it’s honestly better to spend a little more and enjoy a lot more rather than suffering in the wet season.

Important: hurricane season runs throughout this time, and peaks around August. Hurricanes don’t often hit Belize, but when they do, they can be absolutely brutal. It’s best not to come during this time, but if you do, think twice about diving. Waters can be choppy, and it’s potentially dangerous if hurricanes get too close.

Diving and snorkelling visibility can be poor during the wet months. Whilst festivals may lead to a spike in prices here. And whilst we’re on the subject of festivals…

Festivals in Belize

There is always a good reason to get down in Belize. Here is a list of a few interesting festivals happening throughout the country every year. Something to note is that there is always some form of live music to be heard most weekends, especially on the coast.

• Easter–Lent, Carnival, and Semana Santa (March/April): Belize is no different from other Latin American countries, and Easter is a huge deal. Easter weekend is an extremely festive and colourful celebration. Benque Viejo del Carmen is a particularly devout city, and holds a weeklong party from Palm Sunday to Good Friday.
• Mango Festival in Hopkins (June): Love mango? Me too. If you’re in the Hopkins area in June, then you will be feasting and celebrating with Mango until your heart’s content.
• Belize City Carnival (September): Wild floats crowd the streets during Belize City’s Carnival. This festival is the largest demonstration of the Caribbean spirit in Belize.
• International Costa Maya Festival (August): Originally a celebration of Maya heritage from around the region, the International Costa Maya Festival is now one of the biggest festivals of the year. Held in San Pedro on the island of Ambergris Caye in August, the International Costa Maya Festival has top musical acts, plenty of delicious food and drinks, and a beauty pageant.

You should always book accommodation weeks in advance, otherwise you risk either finding nothing, or paying a massive premium. I found this when I visited El Salvador during Semana Santa, and stayed in a filthy dump with dangerous dogs in El Sunzal (Hostal El Balsamo is where to avoid, if you head down there after Belize).

Transport will also be much busier, so factor that into your planning. But if you do come during a major event, it’s a great way to soak up some culture and enjoy unique experiences, away from the beaches and waters that you’d generally visit Belize for.

What to Pack for Belize

It’s an important country to pack the sun cream, sun hat, sunglasses, and swimwear. Mosquito and rain protection are important too, and I always like to have a filtered water bottle so I don’t have to choose between spending more on bottles, or drinking potentially harmful tap water. Additionally, snorkel gear is worth having for longer trips, but most tours will include gear anyway.

Here are some more items that always make my Belize adventures a little more comfortable and fun!

Product

Description

Don’t Let Snorers Keep You Awake!

Don’t Let Snorers Keep You Awake!

Ear Plugs

Snoring dorm-mates can ruin your nights rest and seriously damage the hostel experience. This is why I always travel with a pack of decent ear plugs.

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Keep your laundry organized and stink free

Keep your laundry organized and stink free

Hanging Laundry Bag

Trust us, this is an absolute game changer. Super compact, a hanging mesh laundry bag stops your dirty clothes from stinking, you don’t know how much you need one of these… so just get it, thank us later.

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Stay Dry With a Micro Towel

Stay Dry With a Micro Towel

Sea To Summit Micro Towel

Hostel towels are scummy and take forever to dry. Microfibre towels dry quickly, are compact, lightweight, and can be used as a blanket or yoga mat if need be.

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Reduce Plastic – Bring a Water Bottle!

Reduce Plastic – Bring a Water Bottle!

Grayl Geopress Water Bottle

Always travel with a water bottle! They save you money and reduce your plastic footprint on our planet. The Grayl Geopress acts as a purifier AND temperature regulator. Boom!

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Belize is a paradise but it is not immune to trouble. I personally had a mostly positive experience here, but there is violent crime, especially around Belize City, and at night. If you adopt the same safety precautions you would for other Central American countries, you should be okay.

The one incident I had came on my first day. I rocked up from Mexico with no accom booked. I arrived in Corozal, hoping to take a boat over to San Pedro. When I bought a ticket, they were sold out, and I had to get one for the next day at 3pm. I stupidly let an overly-friendly local know I had no accommodation booked, and he said he could show me a place.

I said “sure”, and followed him with no intention of booking there. But it was the same place I’d seen online for the same price, so I let my guard down and booked. Anyway, he was waiting when I came out later and told me all about his criminal life. Then he was waiting again when I came out for sunset. The last I saw of him was police bundling him into a van, but he know I’d be getting the 3pm boat the next day and was travelling alone, even though I made up a false “friend” who would wait for me.

I made the decision to waste the £23 boat ticket and spend £50 on a flight instead, leaving as the sun rose to get out before he was waiting for me. The unreal views from the flight made it worth the extra money, but a lesson was learned. Never let an overly-friendly stranger know anything about you, and definitely don’t follow them around.

Being out late, drunk, and alone is a recipe for trouble anywhere in the world. There have been reports of backpackers getting held up on remote sections of beach and in the rough neighbourhoods of Belize City late at night. Theft isn’t uncommon here.

Secure valuables in dorms and on transport. I always bring two types of padlock: one to lock my zips together (or better, to close a locker in dorms), and one cable lock to attach my bag to a pole if there are no lockers, or my leg when sleeping on night buses.

Be aware that Belize is home to many species of poisonous spiders, snakes, and other dangerous creatures. Always watch your step when trekking through the jungle. Never stick your hand somewhere you haven’t first seen with your eyes. And don’t hike without taking current safety advice from locals.

Learn More: Backpacker Safety 101

Sex, Drugs, and, Rock ‘N’ Roll in Belize

Belize has long been renowned as one of the party capitals for travellers backpacking Central America. Belizean locals enjoy sinking a few beers in the evening. I found San Pedro to have the best nightlife. Although Caye Caulker is great for winding down with a few quiet beers at the Lazy Lizard. Beach parties are common, but once you get in land, it becomes a little more subdued.

Avoid travelling with drugs in Belize, the police sometimes strip-search backpackers and NEVER cross an international border carrying drugs. especially to Mexico or Guatemala! That would be stupid! Oh and drugs can be incredibly dangerous anyway, plus they’ve contributed to thousands of murders across Central America as gangs fight for control of the narco trade. Stay clear.

Watch your drinks here. Don’t let them out of sight. Bottles are better to drink from than glasses. And don’t accept drinks from strangers. If drinking with new friends, don’t go too hard, and avoid isolated areas.

Travel Insurance for Belize

Travelling without insurance would be risky, so do consider getting good backpacker insurance sorted before you head off on an adventure. I was scratched by an iguana and became ill a week later (they carry salmonella). Possibly unrelated, but it was good to be insured just to be safe.

ALWAYS sort out your backpacker insurance before your trip. There’s plenty to choose from in that department, but a good place to start is Safety Wing.

They offer month-to-month payments, no lock-in contracts, and require absolutely no itineraries: that’s the exact kind of insurance long-term travellers and digital nomads need.

SafetyWing is cheap, easy, and admin-free: just sign up lickety-split so you can get back to it!

Click the button below to learn more about SafetyWing’s setup or read our insider review for the full tasty scoop.

How to Get Into Belize

Before I got to Belize, I was backpacking in Mexico. I found the cheapest flights to Central America are usually into Cancun or Mexico City. Once I was in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico, I took a bus across the border near Chetumal.

At all Mexico land borders, be wary of an “exit fee” of roughly ~$35 they may try to charge. It should be included in your airfare from when you arrived in Mexico, so watch out for this and insist on not paying. Sometimes they may push you to pay though. I got away without paying it by telling them I had no money, but it depends on luck really.

Alternatively, if you are backpacking all of Central America, you can fly into Panama City or San Jose and travel north to Belize. You can easily cross from Guatemala. Flores to San Ignacio is a popular route, whilst there are boats running from Livingstone to Punta Gorda. There’s even a weekly boat from Honduras (Puerto Cortes to Placencia every Monday).

There is an international airport in Belize City, however, it is generally much more expensive to fly into compared to Cancun. Your best bet is to come in from Mexico after enjoying Tulum and the cenotes in the Yucatan.

Entry Requirements for Belize

Citizens of most Western countries do not require a visa to enter Belize. For a full list of countries NOT requiring a visa to enter Belize, check out this article. Visa-free entry lasts from 30 days, although some nationalities are eligible for 90 or 180 days.

To extend your stay you must contact the Immigration and Nationality Department who can give you a 30-day extension for 200 Belize dollars ($100 USD). You can extend up to 6 times in total.

You need at least 3 months left on your passport to enter, and may be asked for proof of onwards travel. Funds of $75 USD per day are also required, although it’s unlikely you’ll be asked for this, especially if coming from a country with a strong passport.

Citizens of Dominica, Barbados and Saint Vincent and the Grenadines have free movement in Belize and can stay as long as they want.

Be aware that visa rules can change at little notice, and always check with your government website or embassy to stay aware of any changes.

How to Travel Around Belize

I didn’t find Belize to be tricky to travel around. Thankfully, there was nothing like the 26-hour bus ride I took from Bolivia to Paraguay here. It’s a pretty small country that takes under 6 hours to drive from end-to-end. Here are your best options for travelling around Belize.

Bus

Bus is the main method of transportation in Belize. The buses are comfortable, and I never saw them jam-packed the way I did in Guatemala. Plus they play heady reggae music on the Belizean buses for good measure.

Typically the buses are a bit more expensive in Belize than elsewhere in Central America, but still the cheapest option for getting around the country. They’re good for travel between Belize City, San Ignacio, and the coastal spots (Hopkins, Dangriga, Placencia etc.).

They’re a little sluggish at times, so don’t expect a rapid transport service, and keep this in mind if you have any airport connections or borders to cross. Also be aware that they don’t accept card payments. So have some Belize dollars to spend here.

Ferry/Boat

This is the best way to get from the mainland to Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye. I bought a ticket to get to Ambergris Caye (San Pedro) from Corozal, which is near the Mexico border. I say “bought a ticket” rather than “used it” because I bailed and got a flight instead due to the stalker I mentioned in the safety section.

I did eventually get my boat fix when travelling from San Pedro to Caye Caulker, and again on the way to Belize City. There are tons of daily boats from Belize City to Caye Caulker for $29 USD and San Pedro for $34 USD with San Pedro Belize Express. There are even occasional boats from Chetumal (Mexico). Other companies offer different rates and routes.

Be aware that weather can affect journeys, especially during the wet season from June-October. And protect your valuables as you may get wet!

Taxi / Private Car

Rental cars are more expensive, but can be budget-friendly if there are enough of you to share costs. You don’t need one in walkable Caye Caulker, and can hire a golf buggy if you want to zip around San Pedro and elsewhere in Ambergris Caye.

But for the mainland, they can be a great option to reach some of the ruin sites, such as Caracol.

For taxis, ALWAYS agree on a price before getting in if there’s no meter. I don’t trust meters anyway, as they’re sometimes rigged. My tip would be to ask your accommodation for reliable taxi recommendations.

There’s no Uber in Belize unfortunately. There is an alternative called MiDriva, but to be honest I’ve never used it so can’t tell you if it’s any good. What I would say is that you should try using it to get between the ferry port and bus station in Belize City, it’s dangerous to walk between the two (says the guy who walked between the two. Yeah, don’t be me).

Hitchhiking in Belize

Hitchhiking is generally easy whilst backpacking Belize. Like in most of Central America, there are lots of mini buses and it’s not so easy to spot taxis on the road, be sure you know if you’re paying or hitching free when you climb in any type of vehicle.

Never hitch at night, especially alone, and trust your instincts. If something seems off, it probably is. It isn’t ideal for all travellers, so only give this a go if you feel confident. Speaking a little Belizean Creole (or even Spanish near the borders) could help.

What’s New for Backpacking Belize

The costs have gone up. That’s the main thing which will impact on the majority of tourists reading this. Belize is pretty expensive. Still cheaper than the US or Western Europe, but pricy compared to cheap neighbours such as Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras. Islands cost more than the mainland too.

A “Work Where You Vacation” visa has been introduced giving you 6-months in Belize for $250 USD. However, you need to earn over $75,000 USD a year to qualify for it, so it’s out of reach for us broke backpackers. It does at least set a precedent, with hope that a cheaper alternative will pop up in the future. Let’s wait and hope for the best!

Also, free movement has been introduced between Belize, Barbados, Dominica and Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. If you’re a citizen of any of these countries, you can stay in Belize indefinitely.

Otherwise, the country remains as it was a few years ago, just slightly busier as tourists flock to the beaches here in greater numbers than before. Just be sure to book ahead of time in peak season, and around festivals to avoid price spikes.

Working in Belize

If you are able to work remotely, Belize could be a great option for you to make as your home base. It’s an English-speaking country with phenomenal scenery, so the draw is pretty obvious.

There is no “digital nomad visa” per se offered by the Belizean authorities that broke backpackers can afford, but I’d say you can pretty much work online here for a foreign company or as a blogger without any concerns. There is a new “Work Where You Vacation” visa for $250 USD, allowing you to stay in Belize for 6 months, but you need an annual income of at least $75,000 USD to qualify for it so it’s not currently backpacker friendly.

Paid options for foreigner backpackers are limited in the country unless you have a specific skill set (scuba dive instructor, yoga teacher, English teacher etc). And even for those jobs, you are likely to be paid under the table informally, so it’s best to check the legal status before diving in (ha, get it?) so you don’t end up screwed by the authorities if things go wrong.

TEFL courses open up a huge range of opportunities and you can find teaching work all over the world. To find out more about TEFL courses and how you can teach English around the world, read my in-depth report on teaching English abroad. I taught English in South Korea for 9 months, and it’s by far the easiest legal route to working abroad.

Broke Backpacker readers get a 50% discount on TEFL courses with MyTEFL (simply enter the code PACK50).

Volunteer in Belize

Volunteering abroad is an amazing way to experience a culture whilst helping your host community. There are plenty of different volunteer projects in Belize including teaching, construction, agriculture and pretty much anything. High levels of poverty in Belize mean the country benefits greatly from volunteering. English teaching is in high demand, whilst more unique opportunities include wildlife conservation and agriculture.

You’ll need a tourist visa to enter Belize, and a letter from your volunteer organisation to get approval from immigration once you’ve arrived. Do make sure you check the latest visa requirements before going though. Sometimes things change quickly.

Make sure you only use reputable platforms to find opportunities. Our go-to platform for finding volunteering gigs is Worldpackers who connect travellers with host projects. Have a look at the Worldpackers site and see if they have any exciting opportunities in Belize before signing up.

As a Broke Backpacker reader, you’ll also get a special discount of $10 for signing up. Just use the code BROKEBACKPACKER and your membership is discounted from $59 a year to just $49.

Alternatively, Workaway is another excellent common platform used by travellers searching for volunteering opportunities. You can read our review of Workaway for more info on using this terrific platform.

Volunteer programs run through reputable work exchange programs like Worldpackers and platforms like Workaway are usually very well-managed and reputable. However, whenever you are volunteering do stay vigilant, especially when working with animals or children.

Find a Volunteer Placement

What to Eat in Belize

In addition to being super friendly, the people of Belize like to eat well, and their food culture reflects that. Belizean food reflects Caribbean, Maya, Mestizo, Creole, and Garifuna influences.

Seafood is an obvious specialty on the coast. The type of cuisine greatly depends on the ethnic demographic of the region you are visiting. Each ethnic group has its own delicious specialties. Lobster is a particular favourite amongst tourists, as it’s premium cuisine for a fraction of the price you’d pay elsewhere!

• Tamales: TaSTY corn pockets usually with chicken or fish inside. Served with pickled onions on the side.
• Coconut Everything: Yeah, they put it every where.
• BBQ Lobster: I’ll say it again. Eat some lobster!
• Cassava Bread: To make it requires an ancient and time-consuming process involving a long, snake-like woven basket (ruguma) which strains the cassava of its juice. Delicious.
• Johnny Cakes and Fry Jacks:  Both the jacks and Johnny cakes are made from flour, but while the jacks are flattened and fried, the Johnny cakes are round fluffy savory biscuits, often topped by butter or a slice of cheese. I think I ate at least one Johnny Cake every day I was in Belize.

An important thing to note is that lobster is only on the menu from July 1st-February 28th. During the other 4 months, it’s illegal to catch them for conservation purposes.

Seafood is infinitely better on the coast compared to the mainland. And just remember that local restaurants are much cheaper than tourist-oriented places.

Belize Culture

Like in any country, the people you encounter are what really make or break the destination. Belize is no different. I found the people in Belize to be smiling, friendly, generally chilled-out and laid back.

Belize is a multicultural country with Caribbean, Maya, Mestizo, Creole, and Garifuna influences with some of these found more commonly in specific places. You’ll discover more Mayan culture nearer the Guatemala border where Spanish is spoken, whereas Garifuna communities are most found around coastal areas such as Hopkins and Dangriga.

Expect to be met with a warm welcome and big smiles. You’ll find a slower pace of life here than in other parts of the country. On Caye Caulker I found it especially noticeable. Be sure to respect local communities and you’ll discover some awesome things.

Useful Travel Phrases for Belize

Lucky for us English speakers, English is the official language of Belize. Garifuna people speak a Spanish/English/Creole. To the ignorant ear Creole sounds like the background chatter from a hit Kingston reggae record.

Keep in mind that more people will speak Spanish as you get closer to the Guatemalan border. Certainly, you can get by with English just fine, but knowing a bit of Spanish will definitely come in handy.

For the Spanish speaking parts of Belize, here are a few helpful travel phrases with English translations for your backpacking Belize adventure:

• Hello – Hola
• How are you? – Como estas?
• Good Morning – Buenos dias
• I don’t understand – No entiendo
• How Much – Cuánto cuesta?
• Stop here – Te detienes aquí
• Where Is The Toilet? – Donde esta el bano?
• What Is This? – Que es esto?

• No plastic bag – Sin bolsa de plastico
• No straw please – No paja por favor
• Sorry – Lo siento
• Help! – Ayudame!
• Cheers! –  Salud!
• Dick head! – Cabron!
• Beer – Cerveza
• Fish – Pescado

Books to Read About Belize

These are some of my favorite travel reads and books set in Belize which you should consider picking up before you begin your backpacking adventure…

• In Times Like These: Benjamin Travers has been electrocuted. What’s worse, he and his friends have woken up in the past. As the friends search for a way home, they realize they’re not alone. There are other time travellers, and some of them are turning up dead.
• Time Among the Maya: Travelling through Central America’s jungles and mountains, Ronald Wright explores the ancient roots of the Maya, their recent troubles, and prospects for survival. Embracing history, anthropology, politics, and literature.
• Warlords and Maize Men:  A handy guide to the various Belizean Mayan sites.
• Lonely Planet Belize: It’s always worth having a Lonely Planet packed away, plenty of useful info on bus routes and where to go.

A Brief History of Belize

Belize was first discovered by the Mayans, who arrived in 1,500 BC and lasted as the dominant civilisation until around the 16th century when the Spanish arrived. The Mayans built cities such as Caracol and Xunantunich, the ruins of which still exist today.

Belize was later a commonwealth country of the United Kingdom for many years from 1862, and saw great progress and development in this time. The Brits installed democracy, spread English as the dominant language, defended Belize (known then as “British Honduras”) from neighbouring threats, and built the modern capital Belmopan away from the hurricane risk which battered coastal ex-capital Belize City.

Independence came to Belize on 21 September 1981 after the Belize Act of 1981, without reaching an agreement with Guatemala regarding land border disputes. Decades later and this issue remains unsolved.

Independence has led to decades of struggle in Belize, with higher import taxes leading to soaring costs, inability to adequately fund public services, and vulnerability to invasion without the might of the British army to defend borders, although they do still have a small presence which deters aggression for now.

Modern Belize is a place that struggles economically with an overreliance on tourism and the exports of sugarcane and citrus fruits. It also faces tensions in a multicultural nation, where violent crime is rife. But on the plus side, it has world-class natural beauty, unbeatable seafood, and a relaxing pace of life that offers a tempting alternative to the rat race in other parts of the world.

Belize/Guatemala Territorial Agreement

In December 2008, Belize and Guatemala signed an agreement to submit the territorial differences to the International Court of Justice (ICJ), after referendums in both countries which took place in 2018 and 2019. However, the ICJ is yet to rule on this as of today.

Notably, both Guatemala and Belize are participating in the confidence-building measures approved by the Organisation of American States (OAS), including the Guatemala-Belize Language Exchange Project. Since independence, a British garrison has been retained in Belize at the request of the Belizean government.

The situation looks unlikely to escalate any time soon, and shouldn’t impact on tourists visiting.

Belize isn’t JUST beaches, snorkelling, seafood and Mayan ruins. Sure, those attractions make up most of the main event, but there’s plenty of talent on the undercard too. You can trek through the jungles, and dive towards the depths on a liveaboard. Belize really is a fun place to visit.

Trekking in Belize

Trekking in Belize isn’t about hiking up awesome volcanoes or magnificent mountains. It’s about exploring vast jungles full of awesome wildlife and remote waterfalls.

• Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve: This large forest reserve has an excellent network of well-maintained trails. The Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve – in addition to being the only dedicated reserve designed to protect the endangered jaguar – is also home to a beautiful array of tropical flora and fauna.
• Guanacaste National Park: This park might be small but it really packs in a lot. The gentle trails and easy accessibility here make this an excellent choice for an introduction to tropical forests.
• Tiger Fern Trail: This perfect few-hour day hike brings you through some pristine jungle, ending at some waterfalls.

You should start treks early, because it gets very hot and humid here. Bring lots of water, bug spray, and ask about conditions if you visit in the wet season. It can be dangerous, as rain here is absolutely torrential when it comes. Welcome to the tropics!

Jaguars live in the jungles, but they’re ultra rare. The chances of seeing one yourself are almost zero. Possibly a good thing, because these apex predators are no cuddly kitties.

Scuba Diving in Belize

For some of the best scuba diving in the Caribbean, Belize has got you covered. There really are so many dive sites to choose from, I recommend starting with the Great Blue Hole if you have a bit more experience.

Hol Chan is a great alternative for beginners and snorkel lovers. The Turneffe Atoll is another stunning reef destination. Check out “The Elbow” which is home to large rays, sharks, and all sorts of fish.

Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye are the main bases for diving. Make sure you compare operators based on safety records, not just costs. Belize doesn’t adhere to the same safety standards as Western countries.

If you still have some more cash in your budget, you will have no problem finding more mind-blowing sites to go for a dive! Usually, dive shops will offer you a discount if they know you are planning to do multiple dives with them.

Scuba Dive Belize on a Liveaboard Trip

If you love scuba diving, why not take your love for exploring the underwater world to the next level with a Liveaboard trip in Belize? On a Liveaboard trip, you actually stay on the boat for a week or more.

You basically only stop diving to eat, sleep, and snap photos of ridiculous sunsets. A Liveaboard trip is also a great way to pack in many dives at a bunch of different locations. Because of the longer timeframe, you get to experience dive sites the average dive shops don’t get to, in addition to eating great food and socialising with fellow dive hounds.

A Liveaboard trip in Belize is a sure fire way to get your fix of scuba diving and then some!

It is however a pretty pricy outlay. Broke backpackers will have to make some sacrifices to make this work, so we’d say to go for this only if you’re a serious dive lover. Be sure to check certification requirements before booking.

Belize is small, and not hard to get around. It packs a lot into limited space, so you definitely won’t get bored!

The reefs are cool, but Belize has a ton to offer on the mainland as well. On top of diving, snorkelling and beach life, you can discover Mayan ruins, mysterious jungles, and a variety of different cultures.

Costs can catch you by surprise if you get a little carried away with the diving. Belize is one of Central America’s most expensive countries, even before you factor in costs of marquee activities. Don’t treat this like “dirt cheap budget backpacker Central America” as you might Nicaragua or Guatemala.

I went to Caye Caulker, San Pedro and San Ignacio when I first came here. That’s a great base to start in and cover most of the highlights. I was there for 1.5 weeks on that occasion. With an extra week, you can head down the coast to soak up the Garifuna vibes of Hopkins/Dangriga and check out Placencia.

Remember to respect the reefs, the Mayan ruins, and the general environment. Don’t litter or damage anything, and definitely don’t spread graffiti, that’s not cool!

Slow down here, and put some days aside for beaches and drinking beer (or rum) from a hammock. These moments give you a full appreciation of the country.

This is a country you’ll love without a doubt. It’s the Caribbean without the whopping prices, lobster on the cheap, memorable experiences and scenery, plus a land of friendly people. If you budget carefully, your Belize adventure will be a magical one!